Mt Arapiles

Adventure

 

Quamby Lodge
Mountain Shop
Natimuk

Rock Climbing Mt Arapiles

Mt Arapiles has become the destination of choice when seeking a multi-pitch rock climbing adventure holiday. With over 3000 climbs, Mt Arapiles is one of the best traditional rock climbing areas in the world.

The best place to experience rock climbing Mt Arapiles is up on one of the many classic routes.

Rock Climbing Mt Arapiles

Access   

Located about 300km from Melbourne Australia, there's typically two transport options:

bulletBy Road - From Melbourne travel the Western Highway 300km to Harsham, then travel a further 25km to Natimuk and then on another 8km to Mt Arapiles. Renting a car is an excellent option especially when traveling as part of a group.
bulletBy Train - Travel from Melbourne to Horsham and make your own arrangements to Mt Arapiles. Having talked to people who have used this method, I would recommend renting a car.

Accommodation

While some climbers elect to stay in the camping area adjacent to Mt Arapiles, the creature comforts of Quamby Lodge is well worth the the small extra investment.

bulletQuamby Lodge - The lodge is located on the main road of Natimuk and has excellent facilities at very reasonable rates.
bulletCamping - The camping area at Mt Arapiles is fairly primitive but equipped with a public toilet and fresh water. Due to the water quality it is recommended you boil all drinking water. 

Equipment & Giude Books

Well you're in luck, the Mountain Shop located in Natimuk (just minutes from Mt Arapiles) is one of the best stores of its type in Australia.

For the multi-pitch rock climbing at Mt Arapiles, we recommend a double set of RP's, double set of Wired Nuts, a range of Cams, Some Hex's, 10 Quick Draws and a single 50m Lead Rope (A set of doubles are of advantage on some routes and they will also allow you to Abseil a full 50m).

Arapiles Selected Climbs - This is one of the best guide books we have seen, with clear descriptions and routes marked on photographs it's well worth the investment.

Available from the Mountain Shop

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Seasons

bulletSpring (September to November) is generally fine, however it can rain with little warning.
bulletSummer (December to February) is dry and hot, with climbing often restricted to the shady gullies
bulletAutumn (March to May) is generally fine with cooler nights
bulletWinter (June to August) while it can be wet and cooler, you can get some near perfect days.

Ethics

Mt Arapiles is a traditional rock climbing area with only a few bolted routes, typically at higher grades and where natural protection is not possible. There are numerous examples where inappropriate bolting has resulted in the bolt being pulled out or cut off. 

Leave the area exactly as you found it and this includes removing all of your rubbish.

Areas

Southern Group

Consisting of Pilot Area Wall, The Atridae and Organ Pipe Areas, This area iffers great climb that typically extends to about 50m.

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The Plaque Area 

This area includes the right side of the Central Gully, Dunes Buttress, The Plaque Area and Bard Buttress. The area offers a wide range of climbs with heights from 10m to 120m including a number of absolute classics.

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Tiger Wall

The action heats up on Tiger Wall and so do the grades.
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ThePharos

This is a brilliant place literally covered in climbs with a 45m abseil off the back (which is great at night).
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Watchtower Faces

Dust off the rack, you will need all of your toys to play in this area. The Watchtower area offers a bit of everything including face, crack and off-widths. While there are some short routes most range around 100m and up to 170m. For those of you with an aversion to walking, there is a double 45m Abseil on Right Watchtower Face.
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Northern Group

An extensive area with dozens of great rock climbing routes.

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.