Banks Peninsula

Adventure

 

Introduction

The Banks Peninsula extend east from Lyttelton and consists of the following climbing areas.

bulletFantastic Factory
bulletCrystal Clearlight
bulletMount Bradley
bulletThe Monument
bulletTe Oka
bulletOtepotu
bulletHolmes Bay

Climbing Areas

Fantastic Factory

The Fantastic Factory climbing area is located close to Crystal Clearlight and both areas make for a great days climbing.

bulletRoutes - over 35
bulletGrades - 10 to 24
bulletCliff Heights - about 25m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural and Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

Access

Drive to Charteris Bay (Banks Peninsula) and on to Bayview Road  to the end and then walk the 2km to the climbing area. Permission is required prior to entering the property, contact the owner Mr Faigan on (03) 329 4813.

Crystal Clearlight

The Crystal Clearlight climbing area is located close to Fantastic Factory.

bulletRoutes - about 20
bulletGrades - 10 to 24
bulletCliff Heights - up to about 20m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

From Fantastic Factory walk about 400m south to the Crystal Clearlight climbing area. Permission is required prior to entering the property, contact the owner Mr Faigan on (03) 329 4813.

Mount Bradley

According to all reports this is a great rock climbing area, however it does require about 90 minutes of walking.

bulletRoutes - over 80
bulletGrades - 10 to 23
bulletCliff Heights - up to more than 20m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

Access

Drive to Charteris Bay (Banks Peninsula) and park in the Ortron Bay Park before walking up the the valley to the climbing area.

The Monument

The Monument rock climbing area is well suited to climbers who prefer moderate grades (around 18) and it's a great place to practice hand jamming.

bulletRoutes - over 40
bulletGrades - 10 to 21
bulletCliff Heights - up to about 25m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

Access

From Banks Peninsula's Diamond Harbour take the Purau to Port Levy Road and park at the top of the hill. Follow the track that leads up to the climbing area.

Te Oka

Te Oka is a small crag and it's only a 15 minute walk from the road. This rock climbing area offers climbs that are typically above grade 23. 

bulletRoutes - over 14
bulletGrades - 18 to 25
bulletCliff Heights - up to about 25m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

Access

Travel along State Highway 75 to Little River crossing, turn right to cross the Okana River and up Kinloch Road to the top. When you reach the top turn right at both intersections to reach the sheep yards. Park on the left and follow the tracks that lead to the trig. Please call the owner (Mr John Kayley) the night before to obtain permission (03) 325 1025.

Otepotu

The Otepotu rock climbing area looks great, though a little overgrown in places.

bulletRoutes - around 30
bulletGrades - 10 to 23
bulletCliff Heights - between 10m and 15m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock

Holmes Bay

The Molmes Bay rock climbing area offers allot for climbers who are looking for routes in the low to moderate grade range.

bulletRoutes - around 30
bulletGrades - 18 to 25
bulletCliff Heights - between 10m and 15m
bulletRock Type - Basalt
bulletProtection - Natural Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - South Island Rock
 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.