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Introduction
The Manawatu Gorge rock climbing area is located about 20 minutes drive east of Palmerston
North. Over the past year 15 to 20 new climbs have been put up on a bluff
just above the "White Horse" rapid. Many thanks to Scott Woods
for the time they have put in.
The rock is generally of good quality, although it is a little soft near
the top. Climbing ranges from easy scrambles up chunky rock to thin
face-moves on small features. Not really many cracks or any pockets.
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Routes
- 15 |
| Grades
- 12 to 28 |
| Cliff
Heights - |
| Rock
Type - Basalt |
| Protection
- Bolted with double bolt chain belay |
| Guide
Book - Not Available |
Access
Access is easiest from the Palmerston North side as this avoids a
U-turn on the busy road. Drive through the gorge for about 5 minutes and
stop in one of the many pull-over bays on the left. The correct one is quite small distinguished by having a metal barrier
separating the east end from the road. Walk further east along the road
for about 5 minutes (this can be dangerous so try to pick when the trucks
aren't coming). Descend a steep dirty path to the
prominent bluff just above the White Horse rapid. Use the lower off bolts at the
top of the each bluff to reach the belay stations at a semi-ledge a few feet from
the water (depending on flow). It is an interesting feeling climbing so
close to running water.
Climbing
The two climbs that are accessed from the most westward set of bolts on
the northern face are nice climbing:
| The westward route is a grade 15 crack and involves delicate face moves and
a fun hand crack. |
| From the west on the north face the climbs are 15, 18,21,14,14,16,
18,19,20 then ledge 1m above river. |
| The more eastward route is about 21 an has thin face moves, topping
out at the same point as the above climb. |
| On the west face their is a 12 and a 27 to 29 which hasn't been done
yet. |
| There are more climbs are on the other side of the river but these
have to be finished first. |
Remember your helmet !
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