Mangaraho

Adventure

 

Introduction

The Mangaraho rock climbing area is a very large volcanic plug located about 20 minutes drive south of Dargaville. Standing at the base of this massive rock, you can't help but be impressed at the power of the volcano that pushed it up.

Managraho1.jpg (52262 bytes)

bulletRoutes - 20
bulletGrades - 11 to 22, A1
bulletCliff Heights - 20m to 115m
bulletRock Type - (Volcanic Plug)
bulletProtection - Natural (quite poor) and some old fixed gear
bulletGuide Book - Northern Rock

Access

The Mangaraho rock climbing area is located about 150km north of Auckland or 25km south of Dargaville. From Auckland drive north on State Highway 1 and turn left onto Highway 12 at the foot of the Brynderwins. Follow Highway 12 to Mititai Road which is located about 5 km past the Tokatoka Tavern. The alternative approach is from Dargaville, travel south in Highway 12 for about 15km before turning left onto the Mititiai road. Follow  Mititiai road for about 10km, and on up to the rock and park your vehicle in the car park adjacent to the reserve where you will be facing the north side of Mangaraho.

Climbs

The twenty or so climbs on Mangaraho are mostly slab routes and use a combination of bolted and natural protection. The climbs are described in Northern Rock and we have included a other details to help you find your way around.

North Face

Looking from the car park, there it is.

The Dihedral  18 (40m) John Main 1974 (pitch 1) & Glen Hawke 1990 (pitch 2)

Not a bad climb. Follow the obvious line that leads up the face and on out to the left past the old fixed nut and the new (#4) rock unintentionally donated and on to two bolts. Pitch 2 moves up and right past a wooden wedge (don't rely on it's cord) then follow the under cling (#1 to #3) friends would be good. The climb finishes up a ramp and onto a ledge with bolts on the east side of the roof. The ledge is actually the end of the second pitch of the Slab Route.

The Dihedral 01.jpg (124629 bytes)

Akna Matata  19 (45m) Richard Sticky Dale & Paul Hersey 1995

This climb starts from the end of The Dihedral (pitch 1) and moves out left following the line, use cams (and anything that fits) reaching a piton belay. the decent is by Abseil caution the sling.

Trinity Slab

From the car park enter the reserve through the gate and walk up the track that heads slightly left until you reach a clearing with an old wooden table. This is the Trinity Slab area, climbs in are described from right to left when facing the rock.

Trinity Slab 01a.jpg (193944 bytes)

Roam  17  (55m) John Smith, Dan Harthorn 1994  

This is a two pitch sport route with bolts and chains. Pitch 1 (16) The first two bolts don't offer much protection from the ground before the route moves up and out to the right. Finish the first pitch at a double chain belay up a small ramp by a tree. Pitch 2 (17) Up through the crack and follow the obvious line to the top. A nice climb (other than the start).

 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.