Access
Castle downs is
located approximately 15 km northwest of Dipton, in Southland.(see Map)
The crag
All
the climbs are on private land. The owner is Stephen Clearwater & he
can be contacted on 03 2485057 or 025 301360. Steven is climber friendly
and is happy for people to use the climbing area as long as they respect
his property & stock. Note: The
area is closed for lambing in September.
There
is a toilet located near the bend in the road, but no water supply, please
prepare accordingly. Park clear of any farm access & remember to
remove all rubbish when you luave. The farmer will take no responsibility
and accept no liability for damage to persons or property whilst climbing
or accessing climbs. Do not camp on the property. NO dogs allowed.
Climbers
access finishes at the farmers yards.
The
impressive limestone outcrops on the ridgeline to the south of the crags
are owned by Ravensdown Fertiliser and are OUT OF BOUNDS.
If
the route is not described in the guide it may be an incomplete project
bolted on top rope. Help yourself and report the findings to the authoer
of the guide please. The rock on some climbs is loose & crumbly.
Beware of pocket holds as birds nest in some & opossums have been
found in others!
The
flats near the creek can be quite wet especially in winter.
Warning:
Castledowns is home to OngaOnga Stinging nettle. It’s vicious stuff.
Beware!!!
Climbs
The
quality of rock varies from crumbly to very gritty & solid with protection
typically in the form of 12mm x 120mm galvanised coachhead bolts hammered
into 11mm holes or, 12mm x 100mm Galvanised Tru-bolts. Most bolts have two
links of 5/16 chain attached for clipping.
There are some commercial stainless hangers.
The
top anchors are a variety of either single or double bolt anchors with
links of 5/16 chain attached. during Feb 2001 some of the more popular
routes were equipped with 5/16 Galvanised chain & lowering shackles.
You
can expect to find a
number of incomplete projects (some long since abandoned) and there is the
potential for still more development.