The area is on private land so you will need to obtain prior permission
from the manager Sam Andrews (07) 333 9331. To get there take the road
(north of Taupo) to Kinloch and follow the road past the Marina and down
Keitha Place. On the left you will notice a access way which takes you
down to the crag.
NOTE: The area backs on to some nearby residents, so moderate
your language and be well behaved as we don't want to loose access. In the
winter the access way can be a little wet so don't drive down if you think
you may get stuck.
At the time of writing these climbs had not been incorporated into any
guide, so just print this page and go for to. Climbs are described from
left to right.
Wine Trail 10m 15. Up the crack to a bolt
chain belay. Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.
There's Wetas In My 12m 14. Located 10m right of
Wine Trail is another obvious crack. Climb the crack to a bold chain
belay. Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.
Avalanche 20m 11. Another 30m along is a deep crack which
is quire steep at first and finishes at a bolt chain belay. Allan Kane
(Solo) - Nov 91.
Tunnel-Web Tread 19m 14. Climb the crack to the left
of the overhanging flake and on to the face above. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe
- Oct 91
Stab Of The Stonekeeper 8m 21. Climb up the middle of the
flake past a bolt and up to the top. Mark Jones - Oct 1991.
* Terminal Stillness 8m 16. Climb up the
right-hand crack (good protection around the flake, but not so good
further up) and up to a chain belay. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe - Oct 1991.
Romancing The Haggis 17m 19. Located 7m right of
Terminal Stillness, climb the arÍte and seam (quite good protection) and
on up to the chain belay. Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Oct 91.
Rockness Monster 17m 19. This climb is 3m to the
right of Romancing The Haggis is what is described as a "tricky
around the bulge" move as you move left (with good protection) and up
to the chain belay. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe - Oct 1991.
Highland Cling 15m 18. Located on the face around
the corner from Rockless Monster. Climb up and past the big bucket in the
middle of the face, before moving left to easier ground (2 bolts). Mark
Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.
* Electric Wizard 15m 20. About 2m to the right of
Highland Cling is a roof, climb through the roof past the crux and on up
to a chain belay. Mark Jones - Nov 91.
* Crystal Enquiry 15m 20. Follow the stepped
corner (with good protection) to the top. Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.
* Buckets In The Belfry 15m 17. Climb the arÍte to
the right of Crystal Enquiry, to the ledge and up the face above the
arÍte (3 bolts). Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.
* Where To From Here 15m 16. Follow the crack
and the corner to a thought provoking roof. They say there is a secret
hold to provide salvation. Allan Kane, Richard Dunne - Oct 91.
Waiting For The Ants 7m 14. Climb the north face (1
bolt). Richard Dunne, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.