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Whanganui Bay

New grade 28 

Climbing wise, there has been some attention on development and re-development of routes in the gorge area (Mangakara) of the bay. Kester Brown climbed a route bolted a while ago by Wayne Rohrs, Dave Nepia and Liam Claringbold; the big corner to the right of Sylvia's ArÍte. It's called Knowledge of Angels, it's 36 metres long and grade 28 and really good.

By the time you read this there should also be more routes down a bit further on the big impressive cliff that goes searing up out of the bush by the road. (Kester has apparently climbed the first pitch of a two pitch route at grade 20 and expects the second pitch to be about 26).

Dr Funken Climb - retro-bolted

Dr Funken Climb, on Whekenui, has been retro-bolted (sadly, a third bolt has been added lower down. Ed.) by Len Gillman. This climb, however is still wicked, so go to it. Even Dwarves Started Small (28) has been rebolted. 

Zen

Alex Palman and James Wright reportedly both made an ascent of Kester Brown's 1999 addition to Tibia Pinnacle, named Zen. The climb was originally rated 23 but apparently a more realistic grade would be 25. It was also mentioned that the line is top quality.

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.