New grade 28
Climbing wise, there has been some attention on development and
re-development of routes in the gorge area (Mangakara) of the bay. Kester
Brown climbed a route bolted a while ago by Wayne Rohrs, Dave Nepia and
Liam Claringbold; the big corner to
the right of Sylvia's ArÍte. It's called Knowledge of Angels, it's 36
metres long and grade 28 and really good.
By the time you read this there should also be more routes down a bit
further on the big impressive cliff that goes searing up out of the bush
by the road. (Kester has apparently climbed the first pitch of a two pitch
route at grade 20 and expects the second pitch to be about 26).
Dr Funken Climb - retro-bolted
Dr Funken Climb, on Whekenui, has been retro-bolted (sadly, a third
bolt has been added lower down. Ed.) by Len Gillman. This climb, however
is still wicked, so go to it. Even Dwarves Started Small (28) has been
Alex Palman and James Wright reportedly both made an ascent of Kester
Brown's 1999 addition to Tibia Pinnacle, named Zen. The climb was
originally rated 23 but apparently a more realistic grade would be 25. It
was also mentioned that the line is top quality.
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