competitions authorised by the International Council for Competition
Climbing (ICC) shall take place on purpose-designed, artificial climbing
walls having a recommended minimum width of 3 metres for each route, a
minimum height of 12 metres and which shall permit routes to be
constructed which shall have a minimum length of 15 metres.
entire surface of the climbing wall shall be permitted to be used for
the side-edges nor the top-edge of the wall shall be used for climbing.
there is a need to demarcate a route on the wall in order to clearly
separate it from another, the demarcation shall be made using a continuous
and clearly identifiable marking.
starting line for beginning an attempt on a route must be clearly marked.
TYPES OF COMPETITION
Difficulty Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which
are climbed on lead, with the competitor belayed from below, where each
quickdraw is clipped sequentially in accordance with the regulations, and
where the height attained (or, in the case of traverse or roof sections,
the greatest distance along the axis of the route) shall determine a
competitor's position in a round of the competition;
- Duel Competitions: These
competitions adopt the same technical rules as those of the normal
difficulty competitions but, for the final round of such competition,
follow a competitor-elimination format identical to that used in
the final round of speed competitions;
Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which are attempted by
top-roped competitors, where the time achieved by the competitor in
completing a route determines a competitor's position in a round of the
Competitions: Are defined as
those competitions consisting of a number of individual technical climbing
problems. Subject to the
question of safety, each problem shall be attempted either with belayed
protection (from above or below) or shall be attempted without belayed
protection. The aggregate number of points achieved by a competitor shall
determine a competitor's position in a round of the competition.
and Difficulty-Duel competitions may include routes which are attempted:
attempted after an authorised period of observation of the route;
demonstration of the route by an authorised forerunner;
authorised practice; i.e. 'after work'.
Competitions include routes which are attempted after demonstration of the
routes given by an authorised forerunner;
competitions may consist of separate categories for Difficulty,
Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering events.
Not every category need be
provided at all international competitions.
matters are dealt with under Section 2, Member federations - Competition
Organisation, Article 5 of these regulations.
AND ISOLATION ZONE
competitors eligible to compete in a round of a competition shall register
and enter the isolation zone no later than the time specified by the
President of the Jury and published/announced by the Competition Organiser.
It is the responsibility of each team manager to ensure that he/she
is fully informed of all details appertaining to a competition.
those persons specified below shall be permitted to enter the isolation
a) ICC Officials;
eligible to take part in the current round of the competition;
d) Authorised team
e) Other persons
specifically authorised by the President of the Jury.
Such persons shall, throughout their stay in the isolation zone, be
escorted and supervised by an approved official to ensure the maintenance
of security of the isolation zone and prevent any undue distraction of, or
interference with, any competitor;
f) Animals shall not be
allowed in the isolation zone.
ROUTE OBSERVATION AND PRACTICE
Period: Except where otherwise specified in the regulations governing
Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering competitions,
competitors who are registered to take part in a particular round of the
competition heat shall be permitted an observation period before the start
of a competition during which they shall be allowed to study the route. Team officials shall not be permitted to accompany the
competitors during the observation period.
While in the observation area, all competitors shall consider
themselves as being under the regulations governing the isolation zone.
observation period shall be decided by the President of the Jury in
consultation with the International Forerunner but should not exceed six
(6) minutes for each route.
must remain within the designated observation zone during the observation
period. They are not
permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or
furniture. Competitors shall
not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area.
They may only seek clarification from either the President of the
Jury or from a Category Judge.
the observation period, competitors may use binoculars to observe the
route and make hand-drawn sketches and notes.
No other observation or recording equipment shall be permitted.
Competitors are allowed to touch the first holds, without leaving
the ground with their feet. It is the sole responsibility of each
competitor to fully inform him/herself (within the regulations) in respect
to all instructions regarding the route that are required to undertake.
shall have no knowledge of any route other than that obtained during the
official observation period.
the end of the observation period competitors shall immediately return to
the isolation zone. Any undue
delay to do so may result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any
further delay shall result in immediate disqualification in accordance
with the Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.
(worked) routes: Where pre-practised (worked) routes form part of the
competition, the President of the Jury - in consultation with the
International Forerunner - shall decide the timetable, procedure and
duration of the competitors practice periods.
PRIOR TO CLIMBING
receiving an official instruction to leave the isolation zone to proceed
to the transit zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person
other than an authorised official.
arrival in the transit zone, each competitor shall put on their climbing
shoes, tie on to the rope with the approved knot, and make all final
preparations for their attempt on a route.
climbing equipment and the knot used shall be inspected and approved by an
authorised official both for safety and compliance with other ICC
regulations before the competitor shall be permitted to proceed to their
attempt on their route.
The approved knot is the "figure of eight" knot which is
itself is secured with a safety knot.
Each competitor shall be regarded as entirely and solely
responsible for the equipment and clothing that he/she intends to wear
during their attempt on a route.
Use of non-approved equipment, knots and/or clothing, or any
non-approved modification of the climbing vest, or any non-compliance of
the advertising regulations, or any infringement of any part of the ICC
regulations shall make the competitor liable for immediate
disqualification. Under no
circumstances shall competitors be permitted to return to the isolation
zone after leaving for the transit area.
competitor shall be ready to leave the transit zone and enter the
competition area when instructed to do so. Any undue delay to do so may
result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any further delay shall
result in immediate disqualification in accordance with the Section 6,
Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.
Chief Routesetter shall ensure that an experienced and practised
maintenance team is available throughout each round of the competition in
order to perform any maintenance and repairs ordered by the Category Judge
in an efficient and safe manner. Safety
procedures shall be strictly enforced.
The President of the Jury shall be authorised to demand the
dismissal from the competition area of any person who fails to observe
of holds: On the
instruction of the Category Judge, the Chief Routesetter shall immediately
arrange for any repair work. On
completion of a repair, it shall be inspected by the International
Forerunner who shall advise the President of the Jury whether the repair
results in any unfair advantage or disadvantage to the following
competitors. The decision of
the President of the Jury to continue, or to stop and re-start, that round
of the competition shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in
respect to this decision.
of the holds: The frequency
and method of cleaning the holds on the climbing wall shall be decided by
the Category Judge (in consultation with the International Forerunner)
before the start of each
round of the competition and be announced to the competitors during the
technical meeting preceding the observation of the routes.
technical incident is defined as:
a) A tight rope
which either assists or hinders a competitor;
b) A broken or
c) An improperly
positioned quickdraw or karabiner;
d) Any other
occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a
competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the
belayer must leave an appropriate amount of slack in the rope at all
times. Any tension on the rope may be deemed as an artificial aid or
hindrance to a competitor and a technical incident shall be declared by
the Category Judge.
technical incident shall be dealt with as follows:
a) If a technical
incident is indicated by the Category Judge:
(i) If the
competitor wishes, and is still in a legitimate position, he/she may
choose to continue to climb or accept the technical incident.
If the competitor chooses to continue to attempt the route no
further appeal connected with that technical incident shall be accepted;
(ii) If the competitor
is in a non-legitimate position due to the technical incident, the
Category Judge shall make an immediate decision on whether to declare a
technical incident and thereby terminate the competitor's attempt on the
route (and in accordance with the rules governing technical incidents,
permit the competitor a subsequent attempt).
b) If a technical
incident is indicated by a competitor:
the competitor is climbing , the competitor must specify the nature of the
technical incident and, with the agreement of the Category Judge, may
continue or cease climbing. If
the competitor elects to continue to climb, no subsequent appeal shall be
accepted in respect to that technical incident.
If the competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to the
incident the Category Judge shall make an immediate decision and that
decision shall be final.
(ii) If a competitor
falls and claims that a technical incident precipitated the fall, the
competitor shall be immediately escorted to the special isolation zone to
await the outcome of the investigation of the claimed technical incident.
The Chief Routesetter shall immediately check (and where appropriate
correct) the claimed technical incident and report to the International
Forerunner, Category Judge and the President of the Jury.
The decision of the President of the Jury (having taken into
account the technical incident and any misuse of a hold by a competitor)
shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this
c) The competitor
subject to a confirmed technical incident shall be allowed a recuperation
period in a separate isolation zone and must not be permitted to come into
contact with any other person other than an ICC or Organiser's officials. The competitor must decide immediately when he/she wishes to
start his/her next attempt on the route which must be either after the
following competitor and before the fifth following competitor. If less
than four competitors remain in the round the competitor shall be allowed
to request up to a maximum of 20 minutes between attempts on the route;
d) On completion
of a legitimate attempt on a route, a competitor shall be recorded as
having achieved the best result of their permitted attempts on the route.
AFTER EACH ROUND
ranking after each round of a Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed or
Bouldering competition shall be determined in accordance with the relevant
regulations governing that form of competition.
OF AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE
competitor's attempt on a route shall be terminated in accordance with the
relevant regulations governing that form of competition.
10.2. A competitor shall be permitted to down-climb at
any time during their attempt on a route as long as he/she is not in
violation of regulations governing the termination of an attempt on a
USE OF THE VIDEO FOR JUDGING PURPOSES
In the case where a Category Judge deems it appropriate to examine the
video recording of the
attempt on a route by a competitor before making a decision, the Category
Judge shall permit the competitor to complete their attempt in accordance
with the rules of the competition. On
completion of their attempt, the competitors shall be immediately informed
by the Category Judge that their ranking in that round of the competition
shall be subject to confirmation following an examination, at the end of
the round, of the video recording.
11.2. Height Measurement:
The official video recordings may be used by the Category Judge to
confirm the 'hold/touch' rules in respect to height measurement and the
ranking of competitors at the end of each round.
Video recordings for judging purposes:
a) Only the official video recordings (and no other
recordings) shall be used by the Category Judges and the President of the
Jury for judging purposes;
b) Video recordings shall only be used in
respect to matters arising from
Article 3.1 and 3.2 above;
The viewing of the official video recording shall be restricted to
the President of the Jury, the Category Judges, the International
Forerunner, and the ICC Delegate.