Adventure

 

SECTION FOUR

COMPETITION REGULATIONS

PART ONE - GENERAL REGULATIONS

 

1.      CLIMBING WALL

1.1.   All competitions authorised by the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) shall take place on purpose-designed, artificial climbing walls having a recommended minimum width of 3 metres for each route, a minimum height of 12 metres and which shall permit routes to be constructed which shall have a minimum length of 15 metres.

1.2.   The entire surface of the climbing wall shall be permitted to be used for climbing.

1.3.   Neither the side-edges nor the top-edge of the wall shall be used for climbing.

1.4.   If there is a need to demarcate a route on the wall in order to clearly separate it from another, the demarcation shall be made using a continuous and clearly identifiable marking.

1.5.   The starting line for beginning an attempt on a route must be clearly marked.

2.      TYPES OF COMPETITION

2.1.   Definitions:

         a)       Difficulty Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which are climbed on lead, with the competitor belayed from below, where each quickdraw is clipped sequentially in accordance with the regulations, and where the height attained (or, in the case of traverse or roof sections, the greatest distance along the axis of the route) shall determine a competitor's position in a round of the competition;

         b)      Difficulty - Duel Competitions:  These competitions adopt the same technical rules as those of the normal difficulty competitions but, for the final round of such competition,  follow a competitor-elimination format identical to that used in the final round of speed competitions;

         c)      Speed Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which are attempted by top-roped competitors, where the time achieved by the competitor in completing a route determines a competitor's position in a round of the competition;

         d)      Bouldering Competitions:  Are defined as those competitions consisting of a number of individual technical climbing problems.  Subject to the question of safety, each problem shall be attempted either with belayed protection (from above or below) or shall be attempted without belayed protection.  The aggregate number of points achieved by a competitor shall determine a competitor's position in a round of the competition.

2.2.   Difficulty and Difficulty-Duel competitions may include routes which are attempted:

         a)   On-sight: attempted after an authorised period of observation of the route;

         b)   After demonstration of the route by an authorised forerunner;

         c)   After authorised practice; i.e. 'after work'.

2.3.   Speed Competitions include routes which are attempted after demonstration of the routes given by an authorised forerunner;

2.4.   International competitions may consist of separate categories for Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering events.  Not every category need  be provided at all international competitions.

3.      SAFETY

3.1    Safety matters are dealt with under Section 2, Member federations - Competition Organisation, Article 5 of these regulations.

4.   REGISTRATION AND ISOLATION ZONE

4.1.   All competitors eligible to compete in a round of a competition shall register and enter the isolation zone no later than the time specified by the President of the Jury and published/announced by the Competition Organiser.  It is the responsibility of each team manager to ensure that he/she is fully informed of all details appertaining to a competition.

4.2.   Only those persons specified below shall be permitted to enter the isolation zone:

         a)   ICC Officials;

         b)   Member federation/organiser's officials;

         c)   Competitors eligible to take part in the current round of the competition;

         d)   Authorised team officials;

         e)   Other persons specifically authorised by the President of the Jury.  Such persons shall, throughout their stay in the isolation zone, be escorted and supervised by an approved official to ensure the maintenance of security of the isolation zone and prevent any undue distraction of, or interference with, any competitor;

         f) Animals shall not be allowed in the isolation zone.

5.      ROUTE OBSERVATION AND PRACTICE

5.1.   Observation Period: Except where otherwise specified in the regulations governing Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering competitions, competitors who are registered to take part in a particular round of the competition heat shall be permitted an observation period before the start of a competition during which they shall be allowed to study the route.  Team officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation  period.  While in the observation area, all competitors shall consider themselves as being under the regulations governing the isolation zone.

5.2.   The observation period shall be decided by the President of the Jury in consultation with the International Forerunner but should not exceed six (6) minutes for each route.

5.3.   Competitors must remain within the designated observation zone during the observation period.  They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture.  Competitors shall not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area.  They may only seek clarification from either the President of the Jury or from a Category Judge. 

5.4.   During the observation period, competitors may use binoculars to observe the route and make hand-drawn sketches and notes.  No other observation or recording equipment shall be permitted.  Competitors are allowed to touch the first holds, without leaving the ground with their feet. It is the sole responsibility of each competitor to fully inform him/herself (within the regulations) in respect to all instructions regarding the route that are required to undertake.

5.5.   Competitors shall have no knowledge of any route other than that obtained during the official observation period.   

5.6.   At the end of the observation period competitors shall immediately return to the isolation zone.  Any undue delay to do so may result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any further delay shall result in immediate disqualification in accordance with the Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

5.7.   Practised (worked) routes: Where pre-practised (worked) routes form part of the competition, the President of the Jury - in consultation with the International Forerunner - shall decide the timetable, procedure and duration of the competitors practice periods.

6.   PREPARATION PRIOR TO CLIMBING

6.1.   On receiving an official instruction to leave the isolation zone to proceed to the transit zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than an authorised official.

6.2.   On arrival in the transit zone, each competitor shall put on their climbing shoes, tie on to the rope with the approved knot, and make all final preparations for their attempt on a route.

6.3.   All climbing equipment and the knot used shall be inspected and approved by an authorised official both for safety and compliance with other ICC regulations before the competitor shall be permitted to proceed to their attempt on their route.

         The approved knot is the "figure of eight" knot which is itself is secured with a safety knot.

         Each competitor shall be regarded as entirely and solely responsible for the equipment and clothing that he/she intends to wear during their attempt on a route.

         Use of non-approved equipment, knots and/or clothing, or any non-approved modification of the climbing vest, or any non-compliance of the advertising regulations, or any infringement of any part of the ICC regulations shall make the competitor liable for immediate disqualification.  Under no circumstances shall competitors be permitted to return to the isolation zone after leaving for the transit area.

6.4.   Each competitor shall be ready to leave the transit zone and enter the competition area when instructed to do so. Any undue delay to do so may result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any further delay shall result in immediate disqualification in accordance with the Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

7.      WALL  MAINTENANCE

7.1.   The Chief Routesetter shall ensure that an experienced and practised maintenance team is available throughout each round of the competition in order to perform any maintenance and repairs ordered by the Category Judge in an efficient and safe manner.  Safety procedures shall be strictly enforced.  The President of the Jury shall be authorised to demand the dismissal from the competition area of any person who fails to observe safety procedures.

7.2.   Repair of holds:   On the instruction of the Category Judge, the Chief Routesetter shall immediately arrange for any repair work.  On completion of a repair, it shall be inspected by the International Forerunner who shall advise the President of the Jury whether the repair results in any unfair advantage or disadvantage to the following competitors.  The decision of the President of the Jury to continue, or to stop and re-start, that round of the competition shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this decision.

7.3    Cleaning of the holds:  The frequency and method of cleaning the holds on the climbing wall shall be decided by the Category Judge (in consultation with the International Forerunner) before the start of  each round of the competition and be announced to the competitors during the technical meeting preceding the observation of the routes. 

8.   TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

8.1    A technical incident is defined as:

         a)   A tight rope which either assists or hinders a competitor;

         b)   A broken or loose hold;

         c)   An improperly positioned quickdraw or karabiner;

         d)   Any other occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor;

8.2    The belayer must leave an appropriate amount of slack in the rope at all times. Any tension on the rope may be deemed as an artificial aid or hindrance to a competitor and a technical incident shall be declared by the Category Judge.

8.3    A technical incident shall be dealt with as follows:

         a)   If a technical incident is indicated by the Category Judge:

               (i)   If the competitor wishes, and is still in a legitimate position, he/she may choose to continue to climb or accept the technical incident.  If the competitor chooses to continue to attempt the route no further appeal connected with that technical incident shall be accepted; 

               (ii)  If the competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to the technical incident, the Category Judge shall make an immediate decision on whether to declare a technical incident and thereby terminate the competitor's attempt on the route (and in accordance with the rules governing technical incidents, permit the competitor a subsequent attempt).

         b)   If a technical incident is indicated by a competitor:

               (i)      While the competitor is climbing , the competitor must specify the nature of the technical incident and, with the agreement of the Category Judge, may continue or cease climbing.  If the competitor elects to continue to climb, no subsequent appeal shall be accepted in respect to that technical incident.   If the competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to the incident the Category Judge shall make an immediate decision and that decision shall be final.

               (ii)  If a competitor falls and claims that a technical incident precipitated the fall, the competitor shall be immediately escorted to the special isolation zone to await the outcome of the investigation of the claimed technical incident. The Chief Routesetter shall immediately check (and where appropriate correct) the claimed technical incident and report to the International Forerunner, Category Judge and the President of the Jury.  The decision of the President of the Jury (having taken into account the technical incident and any misuse of a hold by a competitor) shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this decision.

         c)   The competitor subject to a confirmed technical incident shall be allowed a recuperation period in a separate isolation zone and must not be permitted to come into contact with any other person other than an ICC or Organiser's officials.  The competitor must decide immediately when he/she wishes to start his/her next attempt on the route which must be either after the following competitor and before the fifth following competitor. If less than four competitors remain in the round the competitor shall be allowed to request up to a maximum of 20 minutes between attempts on the route;

         d)   On completion of a legitimate attempt on a route, a competitor shall be recorded as having achieved the best result of their permitted attempts on the route.

9.   RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

9.1.   The ranking after each round of a Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed or Bouldering competition shall be determined in accordance with the relevant regulations governing that form of competition.

10.   TERMINATION OF AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE

10.1. A competitor's attempt on a route shall be terminated in accordance with the relevant regulations governing that form of competition.

10.2. A competitor shall be permitted to down-climb at any time during their attempt on a route as long as he/she is not in violation of regulations governing the termination of an attempt on a route.

11.    USE OF THE VIDEO FOR JUDGING PURPOSES

11.1 In the case where a Category Judge deems it appropriate to examine the video recording of the

attempt on a route by a competitor before making a decision, the Category Judge shall permit the competitor to complete their attempt in accordance with the rules of the competition.  On completion of their attempt, the competitors shall be immediately informed by the Category Judge that their ranking in that round of the competition shall be subject to confirmation following an examination, at the end of the round, of the video recording.

11.2. Height Measurement:  The official video recordings may be used by the Category Judge to confirm the 'hold/touch' rules in respect to height measurement and the ranking of competitors at the end of each round.

11.3. Video recordings for judging purposes:

         a)   Only the official video recordings (and no other recordings) shall be used by the Category Judges and the President of the Jury for judging purposes;

         b)      Video recordings shall only be used in respect to matters arising from

         Article 3.1 and 3.2 above;

            c)            The viewing of the official video recording shall be restricted to the President of the Jury, the Category Judges, the International Forerunner, and the ICC Delegate.
 

 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.