Adventure

 

SECTION FOUR

COMPETITION REGULATIONS

PART TWO - DIFFICULTY COMPETITIONS

 

1.      INTRODUCTION

1.1.   These regulations shall be read in conjunction with the ICC's General Regulations governing international climbing competitions.

1.2.   All Difficulty competition routes shall be climbed on-lead with the competitor belayed from below.

1.3.   A route shall be considered successfully completed if it is climbed in accordance with the regulations and rules governing Difficulty competitions and if the rope is safely clipped into the karabiner on the final quickdraw by the competitor from a legitimate position. 

2.   NUMBER OF COMPETITORS AND THE STARTING ORDER

2.1.   Except where otherwise specifically defined (e.g. World Cup competitions) rounds of a competition (other than the final and superfinal) are held on a single routes:  The starting order for these rounds will be determined by random selection of the competitors.

2.2.   Rounds of the competition (other than the final and superfinal) which are held on two or more separate routes:  The competitors shall be allocated between the routes as follows:

         a)   The first round of a competition held on two or more routes of similar difficulty, the competitors shall be allocated to these routes by random selection;

         b)   Subsequent rounds held on two or more routes of similar difficulty, the competitors shall be allocated to these routes, alternatively, in the order in which they finished in the previous round; e.g.  previous rank order 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., shall be allocated to routes A and B in the order - competitors 1 and 3 allocated to route A and competitors 2 and 4 to route B.  On completion of this allocation the starting order shall be determined through random selection.

         c)   Final Round:  The starting order shall be in the reverse order of the ranking of the semi-final round.  If after the application of the countback procedure there are competitors who are tied and share places, the starting order for these tied places shall be decided by random selection.

         d)   Superfinal:  The starting order shall be the same as for the final round of the competition.

3.   OBSERVATION PERIOD

3.1.   In accordance with the General Regulations, competitors (as a group) shall be permitted to observe the on-sight route they are required to attempt.

3.2.   In the case of the superfinal, the President of the Jury may decide not to permit an observation period.

4.   CLIMBING PROCEDURE

4.1.   Each route shall be allocated a pre-designated period in which a competitor may attempt the route.  This time period shall include a 40 second final preparation period, at the base of the route, described in Article 4.2 below.

4.2.   On entering the competition area at the base of the climbing wall, the competitor shall be required to immediately step over the official start line.  At that point, the Category Judge shall start (or give instruction to start) the recording of the time taken by a competitor in attempting the route.  Each competitor shall be permitted 40 seconds to commence their attempt on the route.  If the competitor has not started their attempt at the end of this 40 second period they shall be instructed to start immediately.  The 40 second final observation period shall be part of the overall time for the route.  Any further delay shall make the competitor liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

4.3.  Each competitor's attempt shall be deemed to have started when both feet have left the ground.

4.4.   A competitor may ask the Category Judge at any time during their attempt on their route how much of their allotted route-time remains, and the Category Judge shall immediately inform the competitor of the remaining time. The Category Judge shall also inform a competitor when only 60 seconds of the allocated route-time remains. When the route-time has ended, the Category Judge shall stop the competitor and instruct the measurement procedure to take place.  A competitor who fails to obey the Category Judge's instruction to stop climbing shall be liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

4.5.   During their attempt on a route:

         a)   Each competitor shall snaplink each karabiner/quickdraw in sequence.  Each karabiner must be snaplinked before the lowest part of the competitor's body has moved above the lowest karabiner connected to a quickdraw (in the case of a traverse or roof section of the route, before the competitor's body has moved beyond an unclipped karabiner/quickdraw in the line of the route as defined by the International Forerunner).  Any violation of this rule shall result in the competitor's attempt on the route being terminated and a measurement taken in accordance with Article 5 below. The refusal by a competitor to obey the instruction of a Category Judge to terminate their attempt on a route shall make the competitor liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

         b)   In special circumstances (e.g. in the interests of safety) the President of the Jury shall be authorised to amend Article 4.5(a) above for a particular route; in this case the last legitimate position to clip is the last hold from which the competitor can clip without down climbing or back climbing.

         c)   A competitor may down-climb at any point during their attempt on a route as long as he/she is not in violation of Article 4.5.a) or returns to the ground.

         d)    Where a competitor clips the rope into a karabiner in accordance with Article 4.5(a) above but where some technical error has occurred, the competitor shall be permitted to clip the next karabiner in sequence and then unclip and re-clip (if necessary, by down-climbing) the previous karabiner. At the end, all the protection points must be clipped in.

         The Category Judge may order that the attempt be terminated and the greatest height (or greatest distance) measured if the he/she decides that to proceed further would contravene the safety regulations.

5.      HEIGHT MEASUREMENT

5.1.   In accordance with Article 8 below, in the event of a fall or the Category Judge instructing a competitor to stop climbing, the highest hold held or touched (or in the case of a traverse or roof section of a route, the furthest hold held or touched), in the line of the route as determined by the International Forerunner, shall be measured.  Each hold shall be deemed as such by the International Forerunner before the start of a round of the competition or following positive use by a competitor during that round of the competition.

5.2.   Only holds used by the hands shall be considered. As determined by the Category Judge, a hold that is 'held' shall be considered as having a higher ranking than a hold that is 'touched':

         a)   A hold that is 'held' shall be given the height of the hold with no suffix;

         b)   A hold that is 'touched' shall be given that height with a minus (-) suffix;

         c)   A hold which is 'held' and from which a climbing movement is made in the interest of progressing along the route shall be given that height of the hold 'held' with a plus (+) suffix.

5.3.   If a competitor touches a point devoid of holds (as specified by the International Forerunner), this point shall not be included in any measurement of the maximum height (or, in the case of a traverse or roof section of the route, the greatest distance) achieved by the competitor.

5.4.  If a competitor takes hold of the final quickdraw before the rope is safely clipped into the final karabiner this shall be considered as an artificial aid and the competitor's attempt on the route shall be terminated and measured in accordance with Article 5.1 and Article 5.2.

6.   RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND OF THE COMPETITION

6.1.   After each round of the competition, the competitors shall be ranked according to Article 5.2.

6.2.   In the case of tied places, a countback procedure shall be used such that the results of the previous round shall be taken into account in separating tied competitors.  If ties remain, successively earlier rounds shall be taken into account in the countback procedure.  The countback procedure shall not apply to that round where competitors have competed, split in to two groups, on two or more non-identical routes.

6.3.   When not otherwise specified in the competition format, if a qualifying round of a competition requires that the competitors be allocated between two or more non-identical routes having the same technical grade, for those competitors who do not qualify for the following round, the final ranking shall be determined by the aggregate place achieved on the ranking of the combined routes.

6.4.   Superfinal:  If, after applying the countback procedure at the end of the final round of the competition, there exists a tie for the first place a superfinal shall be held.  If a tie exists at the end of a superfinal, the competitors that remain tied shall be deemed equal and the competition will be terminated.

7.   QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND

7.1.   Article 7 must be read in conjunction with Article 6 above; i.e. the ranking procedure must first be completed before Article 7 is applied.

7.2.   Where there are insufficient competitors who have successfully completed the route in the preceding round of the competition, the remaining places of the fixed quota shall be filled by the next best ranked competitors.

7.3.    The fixed quota of competitors qualifying for the semi-final and final shall be, respectively, 26   and 8 competitors.

7.4.   Semi-Final and Final Rounds - Floating Quotas:  If the fixed quotas for the semi-final and final rounds of the competition are exceeded as a result of tied places following the application of the countback procedure, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from above and below) shall qualify for the next round of the competition subject to the condition that the semi-final and final rounds shall consist of, respectively, not less than 20 and 6 competitors;

         If this number is the same when calculated from above and below, the number of competitors

         corresponding to the greater quota qualify for the final round.

         Under special circumstances (e.g. TV live broadcasting requirements), the smaller quota may be taken: this decision shall be announced by the President of the Jury after consulting the organiser, in the technical meeting prior to the competition.

8.   TERMINATION OF AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE

8.1.   Successful Attempt on a Route:  A competitor shall be deemed to have successfully completed an attempt on a route if that attempt is in accordance with Article 1.3 above.    

8.2.   Unsuccessful Attempt on a Route: A competitor shall be deemed to have unsuccessfully completed an attempt in a route if he/she:

         a)   Falls;

         b)   Exceeds the permitted time for the route;

         c)   Touches any part of the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route;

         d)   Uses the side-edges or top-edges of the wall;

         e)   Fails to snap link a quickdraw in accordance with regulations governing the competition;

         f)    Once having started, touches the ground with any part of the body;

         g)   Uses any artificial aid.
 

 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.