Adventure

 

SECTION FOUR

COMPETITION REGULATIONS

PART FOUR - BOULDERING COMPETITIONS

 

1.   INTRODUCTION

These Rules shall be read in conjunction with the General Regulations and Rules governing World Cup Climbing Competitions, with the following amendments.

2.   GENERAL

2.1.   Bouldering competitions consist in a series of short routes, usually called problems. All problems shall be climbed without ropes. The number of handholds in each problem shall be at most 12 and the average number of handholds for each problem in one round shall be between 4 and 8.

2.2.    All problems shall be protected by landing mats. It is the responsibility of the route-setter to decide the size and the position of the mats. If different mats are joined, the mats shall be covered to make it impossible for the climbers to fall in-between them.

2.3.   Bouldering competitions shall consist of one round, or two rounds, named qualifying and final rounds, or three rounds, named qualifying, semi-final and final rounds. In case of unforeseen events one round can be cancelled. For the same reason the number of problems may be reduced at the discretion of the President of the Jury.

2.4.    The numbers of problems in one round must be no less than 4 and no more than 8. However, when the competition consists in one round, then the number of problems shall not be less than 5.

2.5.    Height of the problems: for safety reasons, the possible fall of the climber may not be more than 3 metres down to the landing mat, from the lowest part of the body.

2.6.    The jury of each problem shall consist of two judges. At least one of them must be a national judge.

2.7.    Each problem shall have a pre designated starting position from which all attempts must start. It shall consist at least of two fixed and marked positions for the two feet. These starting positions must be marked in a different colour than the other holds of the problem, and must be the same for all the problem. At the discretion of the International Forerunner the pre designated starting holds may be labeled left or right.

2.8.    One bonus point will be awarded for holding a specified hold on the problem. The positioning of this hold will be at the Route Setters discretion. This hold must be orange or orange marked.

2.9.    The finishing hold must be of the same colour as the starting hold, however, in some cases it is possible that successful completion of the problem can be attained by a standing position on the top of the problem.

2.10.  If necessary, a red marking can be used to define the boundaries of a problem.

2.11.  The markings used in points 2.7 to 2.10 will be the same for all the competition. An example must be installed on the isolation zone practice wall.

3.   OBSERVATION PERIOD

3.1.    No separate observation period is allowed as the observation period is part of the allocated time for the problem.

3.2.   Competitors must remain within the designated observation zone during the observation period. They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture.  Competitors shall not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area.  They may only seek clarification from either the President of the Jury, a Category Judge or one of the route judges assigned to the problem. Jumping to touch holds shall be considered an infringement of the Disciplinary Regulations Art. 2.2b.

4.   CLIMBING PROCEDURE

4.1.    In each round of the competition, competitors must attempt a number of problems. After each problem the climber has a rest-period equal to the allocated problem time. The President of the Jury must announce/publish the number and sequence of problems to be attempted in each round before the start of the round. Each route must include a clearly marked area from which the competitor can see the route. This area must not allow observation of any other routes and must include the safety matting.

4.2.    In accordance with the Regulations and Rules governing Bouldering competitions, each problem shall be allocated a pre designated period of time, in which a competitor may attempt the route as many times as he/she wants. The period of time for each problem is the same for all problems in a given round. The amount of permitted time must be announced/published by the President of the Jury and must not be less than 4 minutes and no more than 8 minutes.

4.3.    The beginning (and ending) of every period of time shall be announced by a loud and clear signal. At this signal the competitors that are climbing must stop climbing and enter the resting area. This area must not allow observation of any other problems. The climber who has finished his/her resting period must move on to the next problem.

4.4.    An attempt on a problem is deemed to have started when every part of the body of the competitor has left the ground.

4.5.    The last minute from the allocated time will be announced with a defined signal.

4.6.    Brushes may be used by competitors to clean holds that may be reached from the ground. Only brushes that are provided by the organization and that are available at every problem must be used for this purpose. Any  personal cleaning system is forbidden.

4.7.    The use of any other substance but chalk can only be authorized by the President of the Jury in accordance with the organization.

5.       END OF AN ATTEMPT

5.1.    An attempt is considered successful when the finishing hold is held with both hands and the judge announces "OK".

5.2.    An attempt is considered finished in the case of a return to the ground or at the end of the allocated rotation time.

5.3.    The competitor will be stopped if he/she trespasses the problemís boundaries or uses a forbidden hold.

6.   TECHNICAL INCIDENT

6.1.    If the technical incident can be repaired before the end of the current climbing period the climber involved will be offered the opportunity to continue with his/her attempts. If the climber elects to continue then the technical incident is finished and no further appeals shall be allowed. If the climber elects to not continue his/her attempts within the current climbing period then the climber will resume their attempts after completing the competition round. In this instance the President of the Jury will decide when a gap of time has to be made to allow the victim of the technical incident to continue their attempts. The climber will be allowed the time remaining at the moment when the incident occurred, with a minimum of two minutes.

6.2.    If the incident can not be repaired before the end of the rotation time, at the signal announcing the end of the rotation time, the round will be stopped for the climber, victim of the incident, as well as for all the climbers on the preceding problems. For all the other climbers, the round continues. After repair, the climber, victim of the incident, will be allowed the time remaining at the moment the incident occurred, with a minimum of two minutes in a rotation time. After this time, the competition starts again at the rotation signal for all the climbers.

6.3.    In the event of a technical incident occurring, the first attempt taken by the competitor victim of the incident (on the same problem) after the attempt in which the technical incident occurred, shall be deemed a continuation of that attempt.

7.   RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

7.1.    After each round of the competition the competitors shall be ranked according to the following criteria :

7.1.a.   The number of successfully completed problems.

7.1.b.   The total number of attempts to complete the problems (if completed).

7.1.c.   The total number of bonus points.

7.1.d.   The total number of attempts to complete these bonus points.

7.2.    In the case of tied places, the results of the successively preceding rounds shall be taken into account in the count-back procedure. The countback procedure shall not apply to that round where competitors have competed, split into two or more groups.

7.3.    Superfinals: If after applying the count-back procedure there exists a tie for first place at the end of the final round, a superfinal shall be held on one problem. Each competitor bracketed equal will try only one attempt in the same order as for the final, a pre-designated period is fixed in accordance with the route-setter and the attempt must be started before 40 seconds. The performance of each competitor will be judged following article 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 of Difficulty Competition Regulations. After their attempt, they are ranked, if several competitors have reached the top, they are deemed equal and the final ranking is announced. If nobody has reached the top and if there are still tied climbers in the first place, the climbers in the first place shall make another attempt following the same procedure until they are separated, up to a maximum of 6 attempts. If a tie exists at the end of the superfinal, the competitors shall be deemed equal.

8.   QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND

8.1.    This article must be read in conjunction with Article 6 of the Bouldering Regulations i.e. the ranking procedure must first be completed before Article 7 applies.

8.2.    Where there are insufficient competitors who have successfully completed the problems in the preceding round of the competition, the remaining places of fixed quota shall be filled by the next best-ranked competitors.

8.3.    If the competition consists of 3 rounds :

Semi-final: the fixed quota for the semi-final round shall be 30 with a minimum of 20. If this quota  is exceeded as a result of tied places following the ranking of the preceding round, the number of  competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota) shall qualify for the next round. Where the difference between the fixed quota for a round is identical when calculated from below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall qualify.

Final: the fixed quotas for the final round shall be 16 with a minimum of 12. If this quota is exceeded as a result of tied places following the ranking of the preceding round, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota) shall qualify for the next round. Where the difference between the fixed quota for a round is identical when calculated from below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall  qualify.

8.3.    If the competition consists of 2 rounds :

Final: the fixed quota for the final round shall be 20 with a minimum of 16. If this quota is exceeded as a result of tied places following the ranking of the preceding round, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota) shall qualify for the next round. Where the difference between the fixed quota for a round is identical when calculated from below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall qualify.

8.4.    If there are two groups in the qualifying round, the fixed quota for the next round shall be equally divided and applies to both groups

9.   APPEALS PROCEDURE

9.1.      Any appeal against an official decision shall be made in accordance with the ICC Appeals Procedure.
 

 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.