1.
INTRODUCTION
These Rules shall be read in
conjunction with the General Regulations and Rules governing World Cup
Climbing Competitions, with the following amendments.
2.
GENERAL
2.1.
Bouldering competitions consist in a series of short routes,
usually called problems. All problems shall be climbed without ropes. The
number of handholds in each problem shall be at most 12 and the average
number of handholds for each problem in one round shall be between 4 and
8.
2.2.
All problems shall be protected by landing mats. It is the
responsibility of the route-setter to decide the size and the position of
the mats. If different mats are joined, the mats shall be covered to make
it impossible for the climbers to fall in-between them.
2.3.
Bouldering competitions shall consist of one round, or two rounds,
named qualifying and final rounds, or three rounds, named qualifying,
semi-final and final rounds. In case of unforeseen events one round can be
cancelled. For the same reason the number of problems may be reduced at
the discretion of the President of the Jury.
2.4.
The numbers of problems in one round must be no less than 4 and no
more than 8. However, when the competition consists in one round, then the
number of problems shall not be less than 5.
2.5.
Height of the problems: for safety reasons, the possible fall of
the climber may not be more than 3 metres down to the landing mat, from
the lowest part of the body.
2.6.
The jury of each problem shall consist of two judges. At least one
of them must be a national judge.
2.7.
Each problem shall have a pre designated starting position from
which all attempts must start. It shall consist at least of two fixed and
marked positions for the two feet. These starting positions must be marked
in a different colour than the other holds of the problem, and must be the
same for all the problem. At the discretion of the International
Forerunner the pre designated starting holds may be labeled left or right.
2.8.
One bonus point will be awarded for holding a specified hold on the
problem. The positioning of this hold will be at the Route Setters
discretion. This hold must be orange or orange marked.
2.9.
The finishing hold must be of the same colour as the starting hold,
however, in some cases it is possible that successful completion of the
problem can be attained by a standing position on the top of the problem.
2.10.
If necessary, a red marking can be used to define the boundaries of
a problem.
2.11.
The markings used in points 2.7 to 2.10 will be the same for all
the competition. An example must be installed on the isolation zone
practice wall.
3.
OBSERVATION PERIOD
3.1.
No separate observation period is allowed as the observation period
is part of the allocated time for the problem.
3.2. Competitors must
remain within the designated observation zone during the observation
period.
They are
not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or
furniture. Competitors shall
not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area.
They may only seek clarification from either the President of the
Jury, a Category Judge or one of the route judges assigned to the problem. Jumping to touch holds shall be considered an
infringement of the Disciplinary Regulations Art. 2.2b.
4.
CLIMBING PROCEDURE
4.1.
In each round of the competition, competitors must attempt a number
of problems. After each problem the climber has a rest-period equal to the
allocated problem time. The President of the Jury must announce/publish
the number and sequence of problems to be attempted in each round before
the start of the round. Each route must include a clearly marked area from
which the competitor can see the route. This area must not allow
observation of any other routes and must include the safety matting.
4.2.
In accordance with the Regulations and Rules governing Bouldering
competitions, each problem shall be allocated a pre designated period of
time, in which a competitor may attempt the route as many times as he/she
wants. The period of time for each problem is the same for all problems in
a given round. The amount of permitted time must be announced/published by
the President of the Jury and must not be less than 4 minutes and no more
than 8 minutes.
4.3.
The beginning (and ending) of every period of time shall be
announced by a loud and clear signal. At this signal the competitors that
are climbing must stop climbing and enter the resting area. This area must
not allow observation of any other problems. The climber who has finished
his/her resting period must move on to the next problem.
4.4.
An attempt on a problem is deemed to have started when every part
of the body of the competitor has left the ground.
4.5.
The last minute from the allocated time will be announced with a
defined signal.
4.6.
Brushes may be used by competitors to clean holds that may be
reached from the ground. Only brushes that are provided by the
organization and that are available at every problem must be used for this
purpose. Any personal
cleaning system is forbidden.
4.7.
The use of any other substance but chalk can only be authorized by
the President of the Jury in accordance with the organization.
5.
END OF AN ATTEMPT
5.1.
An attempt is considered successful when the finishing hold is held
with both hands and the judge announces "OK".
5.2.
An attempt is considered finished in the case of a return to the
ground or at the end of the allocated rotation time.
5.3.
The competitor will be stopped if he/she trespasses the problem’s
boundaries or uses a forbidden hold.
6.
TECHNICAL INCIDENT
6.1.
If the technical incident can be repaired before the end of the
current climbing period the climber involved will be offered the
opportunity to continue with his/her attempts. If the climber elects to
continue then the technical incident is finished and no further appeals
shall be allowed. If the climber elects to not continue his/her attempts
within the current climbing period then the climber will resume their
attempts after completing the competition round. In this instance the
President of the Jury will decide when a gap of time has to be made to
allow the victim of the technical incident to continue their attempts. The
climber will be allowed the time remaining at the moment when the incident
occurred, with a minimum of two minutes.
6.2.
If the incident can not be repaired before the end of the rotation
time, at the signal announcing the end of the rotation time, the round
will be stopped for the climber, victim of the incident, as well as for
all the climbers on the preceding problems. For all the other climbers,
the round continues. After repair, the climber, victim of the incident,
will be allowed the time remaining at the moment the incident occurred,
with a minimum of two minutes in a rotation time. After this time, the
competition starts again at the rotation signal for all the climbers.
6.3.
In the event of a technical incident occurring, the first attempt
taken by the competitor victim of the incident (on the same problem) after
the attempt in which the technical incident occurred, shall be deemed a
continuation of that attempt.
7.
RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND
7.1.
After each round of the competition the competitors shall be ranked
according to the following criteria :
7.1.a.
The number of successfully completed problems.
7.1.b.
The total number of attempts to complete the problems (if
completed).
7.1.c.
The total number of bonus points.
7.1.d.
The total number of attempts to complete these bonus points.
7.2.
In the case of tied places, the results of the successively
preceding rounds shall be taken into account in the count-back procedure.
The countback procedure shall not apply to that round where competitors
have competed, split into two or more groups.
7.3.
Superfinals: If after applying the count-back procedure there
exists a tie for first place at the end of the final round, a superfinal
shall be held on one problem.
Each competitor bracketed equal
will try only one attempt in the same order as for the final, a
pre-designated period is fixed in accordance with the route-setter and the
attempt must be started before 40 seconds. The performance of each
competitor will be judged following article 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 of Difficulty
Competition Regulations. After their attempt, they are ranked, if several
competitors have reached the top, they are deemed equal and the final
ranking is announced. If nobody has reached the top and if there are still
tied climbers in the first place, the climbers in the first place shall
make another attempt following the same procedure until they are
separated, up to a maximum of 6 attempts. If a tie exists at the end of
the superfinal, the competitors shall be deemed equal.
8.
QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND
8.1.
This article must be read in conjunction with Article 6 of the
Bouldering Regulations i.e. the ranking procedure must first be completed
before Article 7 applies.
8.2.
Where there are insufficient competitors who have successfully
completed the problems in the preceding round of the competition, the
remaining places of fixed quota shall be filled by the next best-ranked
competitors.
8.3.
If the competition consists of 3 rounds :
Semi-final: the fixed quota for
the semi-final round shall be 30 with a minimum of 20. If this quota
is exceeded as a result of tied places following the ranking of the
preceding round, the number of competitors
nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed
quota) shall qualify for the next round. Where the difference between the
fixed quota for a round is identical when calculated from below and above
the quota, the greater number of competitors shall qualify.
Final: the fixed quotas for the
final round shall be 16 with a minimum of 12. If this quota is exceeded as a result of tied
places following the ranking of the preceding round, the number of
competitors nearest to the fixed
quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota)
shall qualify for the next
round. Where the difference between the fixed quota for a round is
identical when calculated from
below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall
qualify.
8.3.
If the competition consists of 2 rounds :
Final: the fixed quota for the
final round shall be 20 with a minimum of 16. If this quota is exceeded as a result of tied
places following the ranking of the preceding round, the number of
competitors nearest to the fixed
quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota) shall qualify for the next
round. Where the difference between the fixed quota for a round is identical when calculated from
below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall
qualify.
8.4.
If there are two groups in the qualifying round, the fixed quota
for the next round shall be equally divided and applies to
both groups
9.
APPEALS PROCEDURE
9.1.
Any appeal against an official decision shall be made in accordance
with the ICC Appeals Procedure.