Adventure

 

SECTION FOUR

COMPETITION REGULATIONS

PART FIVE - SPEED COMPETITIONS

 

1.      INTRODUCTION

1.1.    These Regulations shall be read in conjunction with the ICC General Regulations.

1.2.    All speed competitions shall be climbed with the competitor secured by means of a top-rope belayed from below. The rope must be a UIAA approved single rope.

1.3.    Speed competitions shall consist of two stages:

            a)    the qualification round of the competition;

b)    the final round of the competition which may consist of an eighth final, and always a quarter final, semi final and final.

2.      COMPETITION  ROUTES

2.1.    Speed competitions shall consist of two routes that shall be of the same length and  of similar profile and difficulty. 

2.2.    If Qualification and Final rounds are held:

               a)   on the same day: the routes for both rounds shall be the same.

    b)   on different days: the routes for each rounds may be slightly different. Competitors shall be informed about that in advance.

2.3.    The height of a route is recommended to be within 12-20 metres, with the total overhang being less than 5 metres. If the route is stepped, the roof width is recommended to be less than 1 metre.

2.4.       Safety

    a)   The top rope shall pass through two separate protection points; each consisting of one locking karabiner secured to the protection point by a quick-draw sling and a 10mm Maillon Rapide closed in accordance with the manufacturer's specification.

   b)   The position of the final protection point must not be more than 1 metre below the switch controlling the timing device or finishing signal for the route.

2.5.       The position of the protection points shall be such as to neither assist, hinder and/or endanger a competitor during his/her attempt on a route.

2.6.Belaying

           a)   Each rope shall be controlled by two belayers.

           b)   The belayers shall be situated  in a position at the bottom of the wall such as to prevent accidents due to falling holds or other equipment, that may occur during climbing.

2.7.    All excess equipment (karabiners, quickdraws, bolts, etc.) shall be removed  from the routes.

2.8.    The routes should be designed such that the competitors cannot interfere or unduly distract each another.  If  the axis of the routes is not vertical, it shall be diverted towards opposite directions.

3.       ROUTE TIMING

3.1.       The time of the route shall be determined by:

a)      A mechanical-electrical switch controlling the route timing system with an accuracy of 0.01 of a second. Should this timing system suffer a failure during any attempt, a technical incident shall be called for both competitors. Hand-timing (manual stop-watches – usually accurate to 0.2 second) shall not be used to determine the result of  the attempt.

          b)    Manual timing:  Each route shall be equipped with a switch operating a red-coloured indicator light and, preferably, an audible signal.  Each route shall be timed by a Category Judge and two assistants, operating a stopwatch each. The competitor’s time (completing his/her attempt) shall be recorded by the Route Judge taking into account the average of the stop watches, eliminating obvious spurious timing errors.

3.2.    When a mechanical-electrical switch is used to control the route timing system, an additional mechanical-electrical audio signal shall be used in order to indicate false starts.

4.      NUMBER  OF COMPETITORS, RANKING AND STARTING ORDER

4.1.    Each competitor shall be ranked in accordance with the aggregate time achieved on both routes.

          A competitor shall not be deemed to have successfully completed an attempt on a route if he/she:

a)   Falls;

b)     Exceeds the permitted time for the route;

c)  Touches any part of the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route;

d)   Uses the side-edges or the top edges of the wall;

e)   Once having started, touches the ground with any part of the body;

            f)   Uses any artificial aid.

4.2.    Qualification Round:  The starting order of the qualification round shall be set by random selection. Each competitor shall proceed by first climbing Route A (or 1).

          Following the successful completion of this he/she shall proceed to climb Route B (or 2).

4.3.    Qualification Round - Ranking:  If a competitor fails to complete one of the routes, he/she shall be eliminated.

4.4.    Final Round - number of competitors:

          a) When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round is 16 or more then 16 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round;

          b) When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round is less than 16 then 8 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round.

4.5.    Final Round: The Final Round shall take place as a competitor-elimination  ('knock-out'), decided on the aggregate time achieved by competitors on both routes. Losers of the pairs in the eight final and in the quarter final shall be ranked in accordance with the aggregate time in the heat. Overall results of the losers of the pairs in the eight final (9-16 places) and in the quarter final (5-8 places) shall be decided in accordance with their times in the heat.

4.6.    The starting order for the first set of the Final Round (pairs) shall be set in accordance with the final ranking of the Qualification Round, as follows:

          Scheme 1) : 16 competitors:     

                     Competitor Ranked        Competitor Ranked

               Heat       1:   1       with         16

               Heat      2:   8       with         9

               Heat      3:   4       with         13

               Heat      4:   5       with         12

               Heat      5:   2       with         15

               Heat      6:   7       with         10

                Heat      7:   3      with         14

               Heat      8:   6       with         11

          Scheme 2) : 8 competitors:

                     Competitor Ranked        Competitor Ranked

               Heat       1:   1       with         8

               Heat       2:   4       with         5

               Heat       3:   2       with         7

               Heat       4:   3       with         6

 

          The starting order for  other stages of the Final Round  is shown by the Schemes 1 and 2 (see Appendix).

4.7.    Failure to complete a route in the Final Round:

          a)   A competitor who fails to complete a route shall be eliminated. If this event occurs on the first route, the other competitor in this pair shall complete both routes and is considered the winner of the heat.

             b)   If both competitors fail to complete either route in the eighth or quarter finals then both are eliminated.  In this event the competitor in the next heat must compete by him/herself.

     c):  i)   If both competitors fail to complete either route in a semi final heat, a heat shall be run for third/fourth places, and the winner of the other semi final heat shall get first place (the loser shall be awarded second place).

                    ii)  If all competitors of both semi final heats fail, both the heats shall be re-run.

                    iii) If three competitors of the semi final heats fail they shall be ranked according to the aggregate time shown in the preceding heat of the Final Round.

          d)  If both competitors fail to complete either route in the final, the heat shall be re-run until a winner is determined.

4.8.    Tied competitors:

          a)    Qualification Round - if two or more competitors are tied for the last qualifying place in the Final Round none shall proceed into the Final Round. They shall be ranked equally.

    b)    Final Round - when two competitors are tied in the semi final and final heats, the winner shall be determined by an additional elimination heat(s) between the two competitors.

    c)    Final Round - when two competitors are tied in any other heats the winner shall be determined by their results of the preceding heat of the Final Round or by their results of the Qualification Round (for the first heat of the Final Round).

4.9.       Preliminary information (ranking place and times of each competitor in each round of the competition) shall be provided to spectators and coaches directly after determining results:

a)      on electronic display (board or screen) or

               b)   by information posters or blackboard, if a) is not possible.

4.10.  Overall results shall report the competitors’ achieved times on all routes and in all rounds.

5.  OBSERVATION PERIOD

5.1.    The observation period shall take place in accordance with the ICC General Regulations.

5.2.    During the observation period the forerunner(s) shall demonstrate the route(s) twice: once in slow motion, and once in race simulation. During this period competitors shall watch the demonstration of the routes.

5.3.    Following the demonstration of the route, the competitors shall have a maximum of 6 minutes to observe the route.

5.4. The demonstration and observation of the routes shall take place at the same time for all competitors. Competitors are not permitted to observe the routes outside the demonstration and observation period.

6.   PREPARATION PRIOR TO CLIMBING

6.1.   Preparation prior to climbing shall be in accordance with the ICC General Regulations.

6.2.   Qualification Round: After a successful performance competitors shall return to the isolation zone where they shall remain until the Route Judge requests them to leave it. Competitors qualified for the Final Round, shall stay in the isolation zone after the end of the Qualification Round.

6.3.   Final Rounds: When a heat is completed, competitors qualified for the following heat shall return to the isolation zone.

7.   CLIMBING PROCEDURE

7.1.    On being called to the start of a route by the Route Judge, each competitor shall take up a starting position consisting of one foot on the floor and the other on the first hold, with one or both hands on the first handhold.

7.2.    When both competitors are in position, the Route Judge shall ask: "Ready?”. After getting confirmation from both competitors, the Route Judge shall call “Attention” and after a short pause (1 - 2 second) the Route Judge shall give a short (0.1-0.2 sec) and loud (clearly) audible starting signal or call "Go!" where manual timing is used.

7.3.    The position of the starting signal should be equidistant from both competitors.

7.4.    On being given the instruction or signal to start, each competitor shall commence his/her attempt on the route.  No appeal against the starting instruction shall be allowed unless the competitor clearly calls that he/she is not ready when the Route Judge asks: "Ready?"

7.5.    When the Route Judge is giving starting instruction, there shall not be any kind of noise or other distraction which might prevent the starting signal being clearly heard by competitors and/or Judges.

7.6.    In the case of a false start, the Route Judge shall stop both competitors immediately. This instruction shall be clear and  loud. A competitor committing two false starts in the same heat is eliminated.

7.7.    If one competitor suffers a technical incident during any Final Round’s heat and interrupts his/her attempt, his/her opponent competitor shall continue to climb, only the competitor who suffered the technical incident shall be allowed to re-start (alone).

7.8.    At the top of the route each competitor shall stop the timing device by striking the switch with his/her hand.

 

 

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Ó Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.