These Regulations shall be read in conjunction with the ICC General
All speed competitions shall be climbed with the competitor secured
by means of a top-rope belayed from below. The rope must be a UIAA
approved single rope.
Speed competitions shall consist of two stages:
qualification round of the competition;
the final round of the competition which may consist of an eighth final, and always a
quarter final, semi final and final.
Speed competitions shall consist of two routes that shall be of the
same length and of similar
profile and difficulty.
If Qualification and Final rounds are held:
a) on the same day: the routes for both rounds shall be the same.
different days: the routes for each rounds may be slightly different.
Competitors shall be informed about that in advance.
The height of a route is recommended to be within 12-20 metres,
with the total overhang being less than 5 metres. If the route is stepped,
the roof width is recommended to be less than 1 metre.
top rope shall pass through two separate protection points; each
consisting of one locking karabiner secured to the protection point by a
quick-draw sling and a 10mm Maillon Rapide closed in accordance with the
b) The position of
the final protection point must not be more than 1 metre below the switch
controlling the timing device or finishing signal for the route.
The position of the
protection points shall be such as to neither assist, hinder and/or
endanger a competitor during his/her attempt on a route.
rope shall be controlled by two belayers.
belayers shall be situated in
a position at the bottom of the wall such as to prevent accidents due to
falling holds or other equipment, that may occur during climbing.
All excess equipment (karabiners, quickdraws, bolts, etc.) shall be
removed from the routes.
The routes should be designed such that the competitors cannot
interfere or unduly distract each another.
If the axis of the
routes is not vertical, it shall be diverted towards opposite directions.
The time of the route shall
be determined by:
switch controlling the route timing system with an accuracy of 0.01 of a
second. Should this timing system suffer a failure during any attempt, a
technical incident shall be called for both competitors. Hand-timing
(manual stop-watches – usually accurate to 0.2 second) shall not be used
to determine the result of the
timing: Each route shall be
equipped with a switch operating a red-coloured indicator light and,
preferably, an audible signal. Each
route shall be timed by a Category Judge and two assistants, operating a
stopwatch each. The competitor’s time (completing his/her attempt) shall
be recorded by the Route Judge taking into account the average of the stop
watches, eliminating obvious spurious timing errors.
When a mechanical-electrical switch is used to control the route
timing system, an additional mechanical-electrical audio signal shall be
used in order to indicate false starts.
OF COMPETITORS, RANKING AND STARTING ORDER
Each competitor shall be ranked in accordance with the aggregate
time achieved on both routes.
A competitor shall not be deemed to have successfully completed an
attempt on a route if he/she:
Exceeds the permitted time
for the route;
c) Touches any part of
the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route;
Uses the side-edges or the
top edges of the wall;
e) Once having started,
touches the ground with any part of the body;
f) Uses any
Qualification Round: The
starting order of the qualification round shall be set by random
selection. Each competitor shall proceed by first climbing Route A (or 1).
Following the successful completion of this he/she shall proceed to
climb Route B (or 2).
Qualification Round - Ranking: If
a competitor fails to complete one of the routes, he/she shall be
Final Round - number of competitors:
a) When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round
is 16 or more then 16 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round;
b) When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round
is less than 16 then 8 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round.
Final Round: The Final Round shall take place as a
decided on the aggregate time achieved by competitors on both routes.
Losers of the
pairs in the eight final and in the quarter final shall be ranked in
accordance with the aggregate time in the heat.
of the losers of the pairs in the eight final (9-16 places) and in the
quarter final (5-8 places) shall be decided in accordance with their times
in the heat.
The starting order for the first set of the Final Round (pairs)
shall be set in accordance with the final ranking of the Qualification
Round, as follows:
Scheme 1) : 16
Scheme 2) : 8
order for other stages of the
Final Round is shown by the
Schemes 1 and 2 (see Appendix).
Failure to complete a route in the Final Round:
A competitor who fails to complete a route shall be eliminated. If
this event occurs on the first route, the other competitor in this pair
shall complete both routes and is considered the winner of the heat.
If both competitors fail to complete either route in the eighth or
quarter finals then both are eliminated.
In this event the competitor in the next heat must compete by
If both competitors fail to complete either route in a semi final
heat, a heat shall be run for third/fourth places, and the winner of the
other semi final heat shall get first place (the loser shall be awarded second place).
ii) If all competitors
of both semi final heats fail, both the heats shall be re-run.
iii) If three competitors of the semi final heats fail they shall
be ranked according to the aggregate time shown in the preceding heat of
the Final Round.
If both competitors fail to complete either route in the final, the
heat shall be re-run until a winner is determined.
Qualification Round - if two or more competitors are tied for the
last qualifying place in the Final Round none shall proceed into the Final
Round. They shall be ranked equally.
Round - when two competitors are tied in the semi final and final heats,
the winner shall be determined by an additional elimination heat(s)
between the two competitors.
Round - when two competitors are tied in any other heats the winner shall
be determined by their results of the preceding heat of the Final Round or
by their results of the Qualification Round (for the first heat of the
Preliminary information (ranking place and times of each competitor
in each round of the competition) shall be provided to spectators and
coaches directly after determining results:
on electronic display
(board or screen) or
information posters or blackboard, if a) is not possible.
Overall results shall report the competitors’ achieved times on
all routes and in all rounds.
5. OBSERVATION PERIOD
The observation period shall take place in accordance with the ICC
During the observation period the forerunner(s) shall demonstrate
the route(s) twice: once in slow motion, and once in race simulation.
During this period competitors shall watch the demonstration of the
Following the demonstration of the route, the competitors shall
have a maximum of 6 minutes to observe the route.
The demonstration and observation of the routes shall take place at the
same time for all competitors. Competitors are not permitted to observe
the routes outside the demonstration and observation period.
6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO
Preparation prior to climbing shall be in accordance with the ICC
Qualification Round: After a successful performance competitors
shall return to the isolation zone where they shall remain until the Route
Judge requests them to leave it. Competitors qualified for the Final
Round, shall stay in the isolation zone after the end of the Qualification
Final Rounds: When a heat is completed, competitors qualified for
the following heat shall return to the isolation zone.
7. CLIMBING PROCEDURE
On being called to the start of a route by the Route Judge, each
competitor shall take up a starting position consisting of one foot on the
floor and the other on the first hold, with one or both hands on the first
When both competitors are in position, the Route Judge shall ask:
"Ready?”. After getting confirmation from both competitors, the
Route Judge shall call “Attention” and after a short pause (1 - 2
second) the Route Judge shall give a short (0.1-0.2 sec) and loud
(clearly) audible starting signal or call "Go!" where manual
timing is used.
The position of the starting signal should be equidistant from both
On being given the instruction or signal to start, each competitor
shall commence his/her attempt on the route.
No appeal against the starting instruction shall be allowed unless
the competitor clearly calls that he/she is not ready when the Route Judge
When the Route Judge is giving starting instruction, there shall
not be any kind of noise or other distraction which might prevent the
starting signal being clearly heard by competitors and/or Judges.
In the case of a false start, the Route Judge shall stop both
competitors immediately. This instruction shall be clear and
committing two false starts in the same heat is eliminated.
If one competitor suffers a technical incident during any Final
Round’s heat and interrupts his/her attempt, his/her opponent competitor
shall continue to climb, only the competitor who suffered the technical
incident shall be allowed to re-start (alone).
7.8. At the top of
the route each competitor shall stop the timing device by striking the
switch with his/her hand.