UIAA

 

INTERNATIONAL COUNCIL FOR COMPETITION CLIMBING

 

INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS

 

REGULATIONS

 

CONTENTS

 

SECTION PAGE

 

1.            International Council for Competition Climbing

1. Introduction 3

2. Competitions 3

3. Organisation of the ICC 3

4. Executive Tasks 5

5. Member Federations, Organisers, Sponsors and Media 5

 

2. Competition Organisation

1. Application to Organise a Competition 6

2. Competition Facilities 6

3. Organiser's Personnel 7

4. Climbing Wall and Route Setting 7

5. Safety 8

6. Height Measurement and Time Keeping 10

7. Results Service 11

8. Competition Starting Lists 12

9. Video Recording of Competition Routes 13

10. Medical facilities 14

11. Drug Testing 14

12. Television Coverage 14

13. Media Facilities 15

14. Insurance 16

15. Award Ceremonies 16

16. Competition Costs, Prize Money and Awards 16

2.            Member Federations

1. Introduction 17

2. Responsibility of Member Federations 17

3. Eligibility to Enter a Team in a ICC-Approved Competition 17

4. Team Quotas - Competitors and Officials 18

5. Deadlines for Registration of Competitors 18

6. International Licences 18

7. Fees 19

8. Team Clothing and Equipment 19

 

4. Competition Regulations

I. General Regulations 21

II. Difficulty Competitions 27

III. Difficulty-Duel Competitions 31

IV. Bouldering Competitions 32

V. Speed Competitions 37

 

5. International Competitions

I. World Cup Competitions Regulations 43

II. World Championship Regulations 47

III. World Youth Championship Regulations 48

IV. Continental Championship Regulations 50

 

6. Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions

1. Introduction 51

2. Competitors 51

3. Team Officials 53

4. Other persons 53

 

7. Competition Appeals Procedures

1. General 54

2. Competition Appeals Jury 54

3. Appeals against a Judges decision concerning a competitors

attempt on a route 54

4. Appeals following the publication of the results of each round 54

5. Appeals to the Disciplinary Commission 55

6. Disciplinary Commission 55

7. Appeal fees 55

 

8. Olympic Movement Anti-doping code 56


SECTION ONE

 

INTERNATIONAL COUNCIL FOR COMPETITION CLIMBING - ICC

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. The ICC is a constituent part of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) and is responsible for the administration and development of all aspects of the sport of international competition climbing.

 

1.2. The ICC maintains authority in respect to all international climbing competitions as defined in Section 2 below. As such, it is the body responsible for:

 

a) Receiving applications from member-federations to organise international competitions;

b) Approving those applications that it deems in the interest of the sport and which it assesses as being organisationally and financially viable;

c) Controlling all technical and other aspects of the sport.

 

All ICC-approved competitions shall be organised and undertaken in strict accordance with the regulations and rules governing such competitions.

 

2. COMPETITIONS

 

2.1. Only the members of the ICC (or organisations specifically recognised by the ICC) shall be eligible to apply to organise an ICC-approved competition.

 

2.2. Only ICC members shall be eligible to apply to enter their competitors in such competitions.

 

2.3. Among the international climbing competitions requiring the specific approval of the ICC are the following:

 

a) The annual World Cup series of competitions;

b) The World Championship;

c) Continental Championships;

d) International Youth Championships;

e) Continental Youth Competitions;

f) International events;

g) Regional events

 

3. ORGANISATION OF THE ICC

 

3.1. The ICC is directly accountable to the General Assembly of the UIAA. The UIAA has been granted recognition by the International Olympic Committee as an Intermember federation. The UIAA is also a member of the General Association of International Sports Federations (GAISF).

 

3.2. The ICC's organisational structure is described in detail in the Statutes and Bylaws.

 

3.3. International Competition Officials: The ICC maintains the right to formally appoint the following officials to each ICC-approved competition.

 

a) President of the Jury - Has overall authority within the competition area; i.e. from the point where competitors and others enter the isolation zone to the point where they exit the competition zone in front of the climbing wall and return to the public section of the arena; this authority extends to covering the activities of the media and all other persons nominated by the organiser. The President of the Jury has overall authority with respect to all aspects of the running of the competition and presides over all meetings of the ICC Officials. In addition, he/she presides over all organisation and technical meetings with the competition organisers, team officials, competitors, etc. The President of the Jury is required to submit a detailed report on the competition and on each 'Aspirant' Judge undergoing the final phase of their international training programme.

 

b) One Category Judge (in certain circumstances, and as approved by the ICC, additional Category Judges shall be appointed) - The Category Judge is an International Judge appointed by the ICC to assist the President of the Jury in undertaking all aspects of judging a competition. The Category Judge is assisted by Route Judges.

 

c) International Forerunner must consult with the Chief Route Setter prior to the event to plan all matters concerning the route setting; is responsible for checking the technical standard and safety of each route of the competition and for advising the President of the Jury on all technical matters within the competition area. The International Forerunner is required to submit a report on the competition and a report on each 'Aspirant' Forerunner undergoing the final phase of their international training programme.

 

d) ICC Delegate: In the absence of the President of the Jury and before her/his arrival at a competition, the ICC Delegate acts on behalf of the President of the Jury in respect to the organisation of the competition within the competition area. The ICC Delegate has authority for ensuring that the facilities and services provided by the competition organiser (i.e. registration of competitors and others, height measurement and results service, medical, media and other facilities) are in accordance with ICC Regulations. The ICC Delegate has the right to attend all meetings with the competition organisers and take part, in an advisory capacity, in all meetings of the Competition Jury. The ICC Delegate deals with all non-competition matters during the running of the competition and shall submit a detailed report on the competition.

 

NOTE: The ICC-appointed officials - 3.3(a)(b)(c)(d) above - shall be entitled to receive travelling expenses, accommodation and a fee in accordance with the relevant regulations.

 

e) Route Judges: When not specifically appointed by the ICC (e.g. 'Aspirant' Judges under training), the member federation/organiser shall provide a Route Judge for each route of the competition. Normally, Route Judges shall be persons holding either international or national licences. They shall be fully informed of the technical rules and regulations governing ICC-approved competitions, and shall be instructed in their duties by, and work under the direction of, a Category Judge.

 

f) Competition Jury: The Competition Jury consists of all those persons listed in 3.3.(a) to 3.3(d) above.

 

4. EXECUTIVE TASKS

 

4.1. For matters concerning the organisation of International climbing competitions, the ICC's executive tasks are as follows:

a) Receipt of all applications to organise a ICC-approved competition;

b) Dealing with all enquiries - both of a general nature and with respect to approved competitions;

c) Issuing all information regarding ICC-approved competitions;

d) In particular, issuing all competition information and application forms to the member federations concerning each competition. Every member federation wishing to register competitors for a competition must send a copy of their application form to both the ICC and the member federation responsible for organising the competition. All competitors and their associated team officials shall be registered by their member federation within the indicated deadlines (normally not less than 30 days before the start date of the competition);

e) ICC regulations and rules and other notices;

f) Official publication of all competition results, the World Cup Ranking (WCR) and the Continuously Updated World Ranking (CUWR), and other official information;

g) Appointment of all ICC officials to approved competitions. The list of the appointed officials to the scheduled events shall be forwarded to the Member federations for formal approval, then to the concerned officials, at least three months before the concerned competition.

 

5. MEMBER FEDERATIONS, ORGANISERS, SPONSORS AND MEDIA

 

5.1. It is the responsibility of the member federations who are members of the ICC, all competition organisers and those associated with an ICC-approved competition - whether working directly with the ICC or in association with a member federation or with a competition organiser, to:

 

a) Unconditionally accept that the promotion, development and administration of the sport of international competition climbing is under the exclusive control of the UIAA-ICC;

 

b) Ensure that no financial or other agreement shall be entered into with an organisation (e.g. television, competition sponsors, etc.,) which conflicts with the ICC's own agreements without first obtaining the written approval of the ICC;

c) At all times seek the advice and agreement of the ICC in respect to any decision which might conflict with the best interest of the sport.

 

 


SECTION TWO

 

COMPETITION ORGANISATION

 

 

1. APPLICATION TO ORGANISE A ICC-APPROVED COMPETITION

 

1.1. A member federation must make an application to the ICC, in writing, no later than the 30 September (or nine clear calendar months - or whatever is the greater period of time) before the proposed date of the proposed competition. Following provisional approval by the ICC, the official ICC application form must be completed and returned, complete with the required financial guarantees, no later than the 31 December (or six clear calendar months - or whatever is the greater period of time) before the date of the proposed date of the competition.

 

1.2. Before ICC approval is given, the proposed venue of the competition and its associated facilities may be subject to inspection by an ICC-Delegate and/or an International Forerunner. The cost of travel, accommodation and approved inspection fee shall be paid by the member federation applying to organise the competition.

2. COMPETITION FACILITIES

 

2.1. The member federation/organiser shall, at a minimum, provide the following facilities in accordance with the regulations governing these facilities:

 

a) Organiser's Office/Secretariat: Comprising an official Competition Director and a Secretariat responsible for dealing with all aspects of the organisation of the approved competition and accommodation of ICC and member federation team members;

b) Competition venue reception facilities for ICC officials, competitors, team officials, organiser's officials, and other approved persons; e.g. VIP, press, television, etc;

c) Isolation zone area and facilities as specified in accordance with the regulations;

d) Isolation Zone registration - including the security of the Isolation Zone and the continuous scrutiny in respect to all persons entering or leaving the Isolation Zone;

e) Isolation Zone warm-up/practice wall and associate facilities in accordance with the regulations;

f) Transit zone adjacent to the climbing wall;

g) A separate isolation zone adjacent to the climbing wall to be used following a technical incident. Provision being made to ensure that strict isolation regulations are maintained between competitors when two or more are in the separate isolation zone at any one time;

h) A competition area in front of the wall to which entry is restricted to the ICC officials, the organisers officials, competitors taking part in the official period of route observation or in process of making their attempt upon a route, authorised television personnel and other persons specifically authorised by the President of the Jury;

i) Height measurement and results service;

j) Medical personnel and a medical room;

k) A private ICC office complete with video play-back facilities;

l) Press office.

 

3. ORGANISER'S PERSONNEL

 

3.1. The member federation/organiser shall provide the following personnel:

 

a) Director of the competition organisation team;

b) Assistants to carry out the following activities:

(i) All pre-competition organisation/administration and supervision/liaison with those for the provision and construction of the competition climbing wall and associated facilities, and the arena facilities;

(ii) Welcome ICC officials, competitors and team members, etc.;

(iii) Register and control authorised persons entering and leaving the isolation zone;

(iv) Maintain security of the isolation zone and competition zone;

(v) Accompany and generally assist competitors on leaving the isolation zone and walking to the transit zone and the competition wall;

(vi) Organise the opening and closing ceremonies;

c) Route Judges (in accordance with ICC regulations) to assist the Category Judge (including route time-keeping duties);

d)            A competent belaying team;

e)            A wall cleaning team;

f) Routesetters and wall maintenance team;

g) Video recording and playback team.

h) Height measurement and recording service team.

i) Media and Press services and facilities;

j) Medical services and facilities.

4. CLIMBING WALL AND ROUTE-SETTING

 

4.1. Climbing Wall: The climbing wall and/or the boulders shall be constructed in accordance with ICC regulations (EN 12572) governing climbing walls. The organising federations is solely responsible to ensure that all the certificates (requested by EN 12572 and other local laws) are provided by the wall manufacturer and constructor, and that the walls and/or the boulders are built in full compliance with EN 12572 norm and others local, governing this kind of structures.

 

4.2. The member federation/organiser shall, subject to the approval of the ICC, appoint the Chief Routesetter and the route-setting team. The duties of the Chief Routesetter shall include:

 

a) Design of the routes for each round of the competition, installing the holds and protection points and equipment for each route in accordance with ICC regulations, checking that the routes are of the appropriate technical standard and that they comply with the ICC's safety regulations;

b) Co-ordination of the work of the assistant routesetters and responsibility to ensure that proper working and competition safety precautions are observed during the construction and dismantling of the wall and throughout the competition;

c) Repair and cleaning of the routes as instructed by the Category Judge;

d) Design, install and maintain the warm-up facilities;

e) Assist the measurement team and/or the Route/Category Judges in compiling the 'topo' for each route;

f) Advise the Category Judge for each route on the positioning of the video cameras;

g) Advise the President of the Jury and Category Judge for each route on the maximum time that competitors should be permitted to attempt each route.

 

4.3. Where approved by the ICC, the roles of the Chief Routesetter and the International Forerunner may be combined.

5. SAFETY

 

5.1. The member federation/organiser shall be solely responsible for maintaining all safety precautions within the isolation/transit zones, competition area, the competition hall and for all activities concerned with running the competition.

 

5.2. The President of the Jury, in consultation with the International Forerunner, shall have the sole authority in respect to any question of safety within the isolation and competition area - including declining to give permission to start or continue any part of the competition. Any officials or other persons deemed, by the President of the Jury, to have infringed or, in his/her opinion, likely to infringe safety procedures shall be subject to summary removal from their duties and/or dismissal from the isolation and competition areas.

 

5.3 Every precaution shall be taken to ensure safety. Each route shall be designed to avoid the possibility of a competitor's fall:

 

a) Injuring the competitor;

b) Injuring or obstructing any other competitor.

 

5.4. The President of the Jury, the Category Judge and the International Forerunner shall inspect each route prior to the start of each round of a competition in order to ensure the maintenance of safety standards. In particular, the Category Judge and the International Forerunner shall:

 

a) Ensure that all safety equipment and procedures comply with UIAA standards and ICC regulations;

b) The Category Judge shall have the authority to demand the immediate replacement of any belayer (if necessary stopping the competition and declaring a technical incident) and any other person he/she feels jeopardises safety standards;

c) In the interest of safety, and in consultation with the International Forerunner and with the approval of the President of the Jury, the Category Judge shall decide whether or not to have the climbing rope pre-fixed to the first (and, where deemed appropriate, other) protection points. Wherever possible, the design of the route should be such as to make such precautions unnecessary.

 

5.5. Before the start of each round of a competition, the Category Judge shall ensure that appropriately qualified medical personnel are in attendance in order to ensure a rapid response to any accident or injury to a competitor or official working inside the competition/isolation zone area.

5.6. All equipment used in a competition shall comply with UIAA standards unless otherwise specified by the ICC or, under exceptional circumstances, by the President of the Jury through the authority delegated to her/him by the ICC. Within these general requirements:

 

Competitors shall use a UIAA approved single rope provided by the organisers. The frequency with which the rope is changed shall be decided by the Category Judge.

 

Under specific circumstances, the ICC Delegate may be instructed by the ICC to carry with him some technical equipment, providing the organiser with that gear (maillon rapide, ropes, etc.) which is not available in their countries. The ICC will charge the cost of this gear to the competition organiser.

 

5.7. Equipping of routes: The following safety precautions shall be observed:

a) Maillon Rapides and quickdraw slings: Each protection point to be used during a round of a competition shall be equipped with a 'quick-draw' sling and karabiner through which a competitor shall connect the rope. The possibility of cross loading the karabiner must be minimised. The connection link between the 'quickdraw' sling (with no intermediate karabiner) and the protection point shall be made by means of a UIAA-ICC approved 10 mm Maillon Rapide.

NOTE: the sleeve of the Maillon Rapide must be closed and tightened in accordance with the manufacturer's approved specification.

b) Where an extension of a normal quickdraw sling is required, a continuous (machine sewn) tape sling of the same strength (or greater) shall be used in place of the normal, shorter quickdraw. Adhesive tape may be used to hold the loops of the sling together; under no circumstances shall such slings be shortened or adjusted by means of knots. Under no circumstances shall a chain of normal length quickdraws (connected to each other by either Maillon Rapides, or locking or non-locking karabiners) be used. Knotted rope or tape slings shall not be permitted .

 

5.8. Belaying: At the start of each attempt on a competition route:

 

a) Each competitor shall be equipped in accordance with the ICC regulations governing equipment;

b) The climbing rope shall be tied to each competitor's climbing harness using a '8' knot which itself is secured with a safety knot;

c) Before the competitor begins their attempt on a route, the belayer shall check (preferably in the transit zone) that the rope is secured to the competitor's harness in accordance with 5.8(a) and 5.8(b) above, and that the harness is properly fastened up;

d) Before accompanying the competitor to the start of the route, the belayer shall ensure that the rope is coiled in such a manner that it is ready for immediate use;

e) Difficulty Competitions: the Category Judge shall, in consultation with the International Forerunner, decide whether a belayer should have an assistant at the beginning of the route to provide additional security (i.e. to 'spot') for a competitor during the lower part of their attempt on a route.

 


5.9. Each rope shall be controlled by two belayers. The belayers must at all times during a competitor's attempt on a route pay careful attention to the progress of the competitor to ensure:

 

a)     That the competitor's movements are not hindered in any way by the rope being too tight;

b)      That when the competitor attempts to connect the rope to any protection point he/she is not hindered in doing so or, if failing to make the connection of the rope to the protection point, any excessive slack in the rope is immediately taken in;

c)      That all falls are stopped in a dynamic and safe manner;

d)      That no excessive fall shall be experienced by the competitor being belayed;

e)      That great care be taken to ensure that in stopping a fall a competitor shall not be exposed to injury caused by the edge of an overlapping section or any other feature of the climbing wall.

 

5.10. On connecting the rope to the final protection point (quickdraw) or in having stopped a fall, the competitor shall be lowered to the ground. Care shall be taken to ensure that the competitor does not come into contact with any ground-based equipment.

 

5.11. Whilst the competitor is untying the rope from their harness, the belayer shall pull the rope down in as fast a manner as is consistent with the quick-draws not being unduly disturbed. It is the responsibility of the belayer to ensure that the competitor vacate the climbing zone as quickly as possible.

 

5.12. The Category Judge shall be authorised to instruct the federation/organiser to replace any belayer at any time during the round of a competition. If replaced, the belayer shall not be permitted to play any further part in the belaying of any competitor at that competition.

 

5.13. If there are reasons to believe that a competitor is unfit to compete for any reason (for example injury or illness) then the President of the Jury has the authority to request a check-up of the competitor by the organisation doctor who will proceed with the approved physical tests. If, following the results of these tests, the doctor is of the opinion that the competitor is unfit to compete then the President of the Jury may stop the competitor from competing. Should there, at a later stage, be evidence that the climber has recovered, then he or she may request to undergo the approved physical tests again.

 

5.14 Under no circumstances shall special provisions be made at the request of any climber, e.g. descent to the ground from the top of the boulder problem by a ladder.

 

 

6. HEIGHT MEASUREMENT AND TIME KEEPING

 

6.1. The member federation/organiser shall arrange for an experienced team specifically responsible for providing a height measurement, time keeping and results service for each round of the competition, when not provided by the ICC itself.

 

6.2. The height measurement team shall provide, in consultation with and the approval of the International Forerunner, a topographical outline ('Topo') of each route of the competition showing the position and height (in the case of traverse sections, distance along the axis of a route) of each hold and protection point on the route. These 'topos' shall only be made available to the President of the Jury and the Category Judge.

 

7. RESULTS SERVICE

 

7.1. The member federation/organiser shall ensure that a public information display system updating the progress of each competitor and the current ranking of the leading competitors is installed for the duration of the competition.

 

7.2. At the entry of each competitor, shall provide information on the name of the competitor and her/his nationality.

 

7.3. At the end of each round of the competition, the Category Judge shall be immediately provided

with a complete and fully ranked list of competitors. After this information has been checked (and, where necessary, amended) and officially approved in writing by the Category Judge and the President of the Jury shall the final ranking be made available for publication.

 

7.4. Official Results Lists: Shall be produced by the height measurement and results service team. All results lists should be in printed form; hand-written lists or sections of lists shall not be permitted.

 

7.5. The results list of each round of the competition shall be printed on an ICC-approved results form and shall include the following information:

a) The approved ICC heading and logo;

b) The title of the competition (e.g. World Cup);

c) Place of the competition (e.g. Rome)

d) The type of competition (e.g. Difficulty Competition);

e) Date of the competition;

f) The title of the round of the competition (e.g. Men's Final);

g) When the round of the competition takes place on one or more parallel routes, the results for each route should be clearly identified (e.g. Route A).

h) The names, official status and signatures of the presiding officials; i.e. President of the Jury, Category Judge and Route Judge.

i) Time when the ranking has been published

 

7.6. End-of-round list of the competitors results shall include the following information:

a) Rank position of each competitor in descending order;

b) Family name (upper case letters) of each competitor;

c) First name (except for the first letter - lower case letters) of each competitor;

d) Nationality of each competitor using the IOC-approved three-letter code for each nation;

 

7.7. The final (end-of competition) results list shall include all the items listed in 7.6 above and the following additional information:

a) Against each competitor's name, the heights attained in each of the previous rounds of the competition in which he/she competed;

b) Complete results of each round of the competition.

 

7.8. No other information other than that specified above shall be included on any official results list except where specifically approved by the ICC.

 

7.9. Following the approval of the results for each round of the competition (including the final or super-final round), a complete copy of the results shall be immediately issued to:

a) President of the Jury;

b) Category Judge;

c) ICC Delegate;

d) Team Managers -or in the case of a team not having a team manager, a nominated team competitor;

e) Press office;

f) Public information operator.

 

8. COMPETITION STARTING LISTS

 

8.1. The starting list of the opening round shall be compiled and published on the ICC web site 7 days before the competition start; they might be amended (due to absences) during the technical meeting on the day preceding the competition, in accordance with the regulations governing such lists and:

 

a) Issued to those listed in 7.9 above;

b) Published on the official notice board and on other notice boards (e.g. the principal hotels at which the team managers and competitors are staying).

The starting list for each following round of the competition shall be compiled within 30 minutes of the completion of the previous round of a competition, in accordance with the same regulations as above.

 

8.2. Each starting list shall also contain information on the next round of the competition including:

 

a) Opening and closing time of the isolation zone for the next round of the competition;

b) Starting time of the next round of the competition;

c) Any other information approved by the ICC and/or the President of the Jury.

 

8.3. Method of Compiling Starting Lists:

a) Where the opening round of a competition takes place on a single route, the starting order for this round shall be determined by random selection;

b) Where the opening round of a competition takes place on two or more similar routes, the competitors shall be allocated to each route of this round in accordance with:

Firstly, their respective positions in the current World Cup Ranking (WCR); i.e. in sequence, the WCR ranked competitors shall be allocated successively between the routes. Not ranked competitors shall then be allocated to each route by means of random selection such that an equal (or approximately equal) number of competitors are allocated to each route. Following this allocation procedure, the starting order shall then be determined by the random selection of competitors allocated to a route.

 

c) Starting order for the rounds following the opening round: Except as specified below, the starting order shall be determined by the reverse order of the ranking of the previous round (i.e. the first shall start last). In the case of tied competitors from a previous round, the starting order between them shall be made through random selection.

 

d) Superfinal: The starting order shall be the same as for the final round of the competition.

 

 

9. VIDEO RECORDING OF COMPETITION ROUTES

 

9.1. Each competitor's attempt on a competition route shall be video-recorded by an experienced camera operator. At least one (and preferably two) video camera per route shall be used. It is advisable that the camera operator is assisted by a national judge.

 

9.2. The position of the video camera(s) shall be determined by the President of the Jury in consultation with the Category Judge and International Forerunner. Particular care will be taken to ensure that the camera operator(s) are not disturbed in carrying our their duties and that no-one is allowed to obscure the camera view of each route.

 

9.3. A television monitor connected to a video recording system shall be provided for play-back of any incident for judging purposes. No-one other than the President of the Jury and the Category Judge appointed to a route shall have access to the play-back system. The play-back monitor shall be placed such that the judges can observe play-back material and discuss any incident without the video re-play being seen by anyone other than the judges and without the judges being overheard or interrupted during their discussions, but conveniently close to the judges' table.

 

9.4. The ICC office shall also be provided with a video playback machine and a television monitor to enable the judges to replay video recordings of incidents occurring during the competition. No-one other than the ICC officials shall have access to the ICC office and/or the video recording made during the competition.

 

9.5. No-one other than the ICC officials shall have the right to observe any part of any video recording of the competition.

 

9.6. At the end of each round of the competition, the video tapes shall be given to the ICC Delegate for return to the ICC Secretariat.

 

9.7. No recording shall be made of these video tapes except on the specific authorisation of the ICC.

 

9.8. All competition video tapes are to be used solely for the purposes of judging the competition and for ICC training courses. Under no circumstances shall they be made available to any non-ICC personnel.

 

10. MEDICAL FACILITIES

 

10.1. The member federation/organiser shall arrange for a skilled and experienced medical team to be available throughout the whole of the competition (starting when the isolation zone opens, until the last competitor has completed his/her attempt on the route). The presence of a doctor is mandatory. During every competitor's attempt on a route, he/she and qualified, experienced and equipped members of the medical team should remain within, or in very close proximity to, the competition area in order to provide a rapid response following any injury or need for medical attention.

 

10.2. As a minimum, a private and easily accessible medical room should be provided and equipped to deal with non-major ailments and injuries.

 

10.3. Arrangements should be made and tested in practice to ensure that any serious accident to a competitor, official, member of the public and/or any other person will be dealt with in an efficient and professional manner.

 

 

11. DRUG TESTING

 

11.1. The member federation/organiser shall arrange for drug testing to be carried out in compliance with the national regulations governing international sport in their country, the IOC Medical Code, and the ICC's regulations concerning drug testing.

 

 

12. TELEVISION COVERAGE

 

12.1. The ICC reserves the right to appoint an organisation to provide television coverage of the competition. In which case:

 

a) The ICC shall be entirely responsible for all costs incurred in providing such coverage;

b) The member federation/organiser shall provide free access to the ICC's nominated television organisation and shall provide all reasonable assistance in enabling that organisation to provide professional coverage of all aspects of the competition. The conditions underlying this appointment shall be specified in the agreement between the ICC and the federation/organiser.

 

12.2. Where the ICC elects not to exercise its right to appoint an organisation to provide television coverage, the member federation/organiser shall comply with the relevant sections of the agreement between the ICC and federation/organiser. The federation/organiser shall be required to keep the ICC fully informed of all arrangements in respect to television coverage.

 

12.3. Copy of the possible (edited) tapes (in a professional format) shall be sent to the ICC for future internal or promotional purposes.

 

 

 

13. MEDIA FACILITIES

 

13.1. Press Office: The member federation/organiser shall provide a Press Officer, a separate press office and appropriate staffing to service the needs of the press personnel registered and having official status at the competition. The press office shall be equipped to provide journalists, other media personnel and the ICC Delegate with the following facilities:

 

a) Appropriate working space;

b) At least one telephone;

c) At least one fax machine;

d) At least one photocopier machine.

e) Full and relevant background information on the competition;

d) Copies of the starting lists, interim and final results and, at the completion of the competition, the updated World Cup and Continuously Updated World Ranking.

 

13.2. Interview Area: The member federation/organiser shall provide a separate, reasonably quiet and comfortable area/room to enable interviews to take place. This facility should be in reasonably close proximity to the competition climbing wall area.

NOTE: Interviews by public address, press and/or television interviewers in front of the climbing wall during the competition (or carried out in such a manner as to delay the competition) shall not be permitted.

 

13.3. Photographers: Dedicated space shall be provided on each side of the competition area to accommodate photographers. Where possible, elevated areas shall be provided to enable photographers to obtain non-ground based pictures.

NOTE: Under no circumstances shall photographers (professional or amateur) or any other non-authorised personnel be permitted to enter the competition area except with the specific approval of the President of the Jury. Any flash or other photography that might be liable to distract or interfere with a competitor during their attempt on a route shall not be permitted.

 

13.4. Television Camera Crews: With the approval of the President of the Jury, television camera crews may be permitted to operate in the competition wall area. They shall be allowed to do so on the understanding that:

 

a) They do not distract or interfere with a competitor during their preparation for, or their attempt on, a route;

b) They do not distract or interfere with the belayer and her/his assistant;

c) That any mechanical equipment used to support camera crews and equipment does not interfere with the competitors and/or belayers. Special care shall be taken to ensure that any fall does not result in a competitor coming into contact with any television personnel, television cameras or associated equipment.

d) That all camera crew personnel obey immediately any instruction given to them by a Category Judge and/or the President of the Jury;

e) Television camera crews may operate from the top of the wall subject to the approval of the President of the Jury, no use of excessive or changing lighting patterns, or any activities which might interfere with a competitor during their attempt on a route, shall be permitted.

f) Interviews: Article 13.2 above shall be observed at all times.

 

13.5. Access to the Isolation Zone: Television camera crews and photographers may only be allowed into the isolation zone (but not the transit zone) with the specific permission of the President of the Jury. Whilst in the isolation zone, each camera crew and photographer must be accompanied and supervised by an official of the member federation/organiser to ensure that the security of the isolation zone is at all times maintained and that competitors do not suffer any unwanted interference or distraction.

 

14. INSURANCE

 

14.1. The member federation/organiser shall ensure, and provide evidence, that the insurance cover for the competition is in strict compliance with all international and national regulations regarding sporting events.

 

15. AWARD CEREMONIES

 

15.1. The competitors award ceremony at the end of the competition shall comply with the usual IOC protocol for such events. National anthem playing and raising flags ceremonies are mandatory at ICC Championships and World Cup final events.

 

15.2. Unless specifically authorised by the President of the Jury, all competitors shall attend the opening, award and closing ceremonies. Failure to observe this regulation shall make a competitor liable to a 'Yellow Card' sanction, or in the case of the three best ranked competitors of each category, to a 'Red Card' sanction.

 

16. COMPETITION COST, PRIZE MONEY AND AWARDS

 

16.1. The federation/organiser shall be solely responsible for all costs associated with organising and running the competition and the provision and award of prize money and trophies (except the award of an official ICC trophy) as specified in the agreement between the ICC and the federation/organiser.

 

 


SECTION THREE

 

MEMBER FEDERATIONS

 

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. The ICC fully respects the autonomy of the member federations which are its members in respect to their national activities.

 

2. RESPONSIBILITY OF MEMBER FEDERATIONS

 

2.1. It is the responsibility of the member-federations of the ICC to ensure that their members:

a) Administer, promote and actively develop the sport in their country; to firmly uphold the principles of the Olympic Charter, the IOC Medical Code, and the UIAA and ICC regulations and rules governing the sport of international competition climbing;

b) Understand and abide by the regulations and rules of the sport and promote, and ensure that their competitors and officials observe, the principles of good sportsmanship;

c) Constantly and actively work against the use of drugs or other prohibited substances by their competitors or officials; follow all the rules and the guidelines in order to guarantee the running of out-of-competitions tests, when requested

d) Prohibit any methods or practices that might involve risks to the health or physical development of their competitors;

e) Undertake to set themselves firmly against any temptation to manipulate the regulations and rules to the advantage of their competitors and team officials;

f) Ensure that their competitors and officials treat all other competitors, officials and others involved in the practice of the sport with full and due respect at all times; both during competition or with respect to any non-competition activity.

 

3. ELIGIBILITY TO ENTER A TEAM IN A ICC-APPROVED COMPETITION

 

3.1. Each member federation of the ICC shall be eligible to enter a team of men and women competitors subject to the following conditions:

 

a) That they are in compliance with the regulations governing the nomination and registration of competitors;

b) That they are not in default of any regulation governing financial obligations to the ICC;

c) That they are not in default of any decision, or subsequent required action, in respect to a decision of the ICC's disciplinary procedure.

d)      All of the competitors nominated have been issued with (or for whom an international licence

application has been received by the ICC ) an international competition licence.

 

3.2.      In the case where a country has more than one federation member of the ICC, the member

federations concerned shall only be eligible to enter one nationally agreed team of men and women, within the permitted quota to represent this country.

 

 

4. TEAM QUOTAS - COMPETITORS AND OFFICIALS

 

4.1. Competitors: Team quotas are specified under the particular type of competition; e.g. World Cup, World Championship, etc.

 

4.2. Officials: Each member federation shall be permitted to register up to a maximum of five (5) team officials who shall be granted free entry into the competition venue (in accordance also with 3.2. above). These officials shall be named on the application form and specifically nominated for one of the following roles:

 

a) One (1) team manager;

b) Two (2) team coaches;

c) Two (2) qualified medical or para-medical personnel

 

Team officials shall be permitted to enter and leave the isolation zone under the same conditions as that which applies to competitors. Only under exceptional circumstances and with the specific approval of the President of the Jury shall any team official - including team medical personnel - be permitted to approach and/or communicate with any competitor whilst he/she remains within the isolation/competition zone. Failure to observe this regulation shall result in the immediate disqualification of the competitor.

 

Team officials shall not be permitted to accompany their competitors to the climbing wall during the official observation of the routes. Team officials (or any other non-competing competitor) shall not be permitted to communicate in any way with any competing climber during the official route observation period. Failure to observe this regulation shall make the competitor(s) liable to immediate disqualification.

 

5. DEADLINES FOR REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS

 

5.1. Deadlines for registrations of competitors reported in the competition information sheets disseminated by the ICC must be respected by each Member federations.

 

5.2. Registrations after the deadlines are subject to the relevant extra fee

 

5.3.       Competitors registration fees will be charged to the member federation, when registered competitors do not attend the concerned event without informing the ICC within 10 days prior to the event itself (considering the 1st day of competition). At the discretion of the ICC Delegate, changes in the list of registered climbers may be accepted. These changes must be notified to the ICC Delegate before the closure of the isolation.

 

6. INTERNATIONAL LICENCES

 

6.1. Each member federation shall ensure that each competitor that they wish to enter in an ICC-approved competition holds a current ICC international competition licence. Only member federations shall be permitted to submit an application form for the issue or renewal of an ICC international licence.

 

6.2. In order to obtain an international licence, each federation must submit for each competitor:

 

a) A completed official application form;

b) The ICC-approved fee for the issue of a new licence, on reception of the relevant invoice

 

6.3. Each licence is valid for one calendar year; i.e. from the 1st January to 31st December. Each federation may, on behalf of its competitors, renew the licence each year by completing the official application form and sending it to the ICC; each application to be accompanied by the licence renewal fee.

 

6.4. Each competitor must be a member of the member federation for which he/she holds a national passport. In the case of competitors who hold dual nationalities, such competitors shall elect one member federation to represent in respect to ICC-approved competitions. This declared national association shall not be changed except with the agreement of the original nominated member federation, the proposed member federation, and the ICC.

 

7. FEES

 

7.1. All fees (e.g. membership fees, competition entry fees, international licence fees, appeals fees, etc.) and all other expenses are the sole responsibility of the member federation.

 

7.2. Competition, International Licence and other Fees: A member federation shall pay the ICC the amount invoiced within 90 days of the date of the invoice. Failure to do so shall be dealt with as specified in 7.4. below.

 

7.3. Appeal Fees: Appeals fees are specified under the ICC's Appeal regulations. An appeal shall not be registered until receipt of the relevant appeal fee.

 

7.4. All member federations which are in default of the ICC regulations governing payment of fees shall, in accordance with the regulations and bylaws, be liable to have their membership suspended and, ultimately, withdrawn.

 

7.5. The scale of fees payable for all ICC activities shall be decided annually by the ICC.

 

8. TEAM CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT

 

8.1. Climbing Equipment and Clothing: All equipment and clothing used by each competitor shall conform with the ICC regulations governing equipment and clothing. Failure to comply with these regulations shall result in the issuing of a yellow card or in disqualification, depending on the infringement.

 

8.2. Team Uniform: Whenever possible, and particularly at award ceremonies, competitors and team officials should wear a distinctive team uniform.

 

8.3. Competitors Climbing Equipment and Clothing: All equipment used by a competitor in a competition shall comply with UIAA standards unless otherwise specified by the ICC or, under exceptional circumstances, by the President of the Jury through the authority delegated to her/him by the ICC. With the exception of the competition vest provided by the member federation/organiser, each competitor shall be free to use whatever UIAA-approved make of harness (NOTE: the wearing of a seat/hip or full-body harness is compulsory), climbing shoes, chalk bag, climbing helmet (where the competitor chooses to do so), and clothing he/she prefers in accordance with the following regulations during his/her attempt on the route:

a) Headwear: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo;

b)      Competition vest: As supplied by the competition organiser. This vest, which each competitor must wear, must not be cut or otherwise modified and must carry the official identifying number of the competitor on the back of the vest;

c)      Other shirts may be worn under the official vest, provided they carry no logos.

d) No other logo are permitted on the arms.

e) Harness: the manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsors label(s) - no larger than 200 square centimetres in total.

f) Chalk bag: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsor's label(s) - no larger than 100 square centimetres.

g) Legs: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsors label(s) - no larger than 300 square centimetres in total on each leg;

h) Shoes and socks: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo.

 

8.4. Failure to comply with these regulations shall result in disqualification from the competition.


SECTION FOUR

 

COMPETITION REGULATIONS

 

 

I. GENERAL REGULATIONS

 

1. CLIMBING WALL

1.1. All competitions authorised by the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) shall take place on purpose-designed, artificial climbing walls having a minimum width of 3 metres for each route, a minimum height of 12 metres, and which shall permit routes to be constructed which shall have a minimum length of 15 metres. At the discretion of the Jury President, a width of less than 3 metres may be accepted for limited sections of the wall.

 

1.2. The entire surface of the climbing wall shall be permitted to be used for climbing. With the following exception: the holes created for the placement of bolt-on holds may not be used by the competitors hands.

 

1.3. Neither the side-edges nor the top-edge of the wall shall be used for climbing.

 

1.4. If there is a need to demarcate a route on the wall in order to clearly separate it from another, the demarcation shall be made using a continuous and clearly identifiable marking.

 

1.5. The starting line for beginning an attempt on a route must be clearly marked.

 

2. TYPES OF COMPETITION

 

2.1. Definitions:

 

a) Difficulty Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which are climbed on lead, with the competitor belayed from below, where each quickdraw is clipped sequentially in accordance with the regulations, and where the height attained (or, in the case of traverse or roof sections, the greatest distance along the axis of the route) shall determine a competitor's position in a round of the competition;

b) Difficulty - Duel Competitions: These competitions adopt the same technical rules as those of the normal difficulty competitions but, for the final round of such competition, follow a competitor-elimination format identical to that used in the final round of speed competitions;

c) Speed Competitions: Are defined as those competitions which are attempted by top-roped competitors, where the time achieved by the competitor in completing a route determines a competitor's position in a round of the competition;

d) Bouldering Competitions: Are defined as those competitions consisting of a number of individual technical climbing problems. Subject to the question of safety, each problem shall be attempted either with belayed protection (from above or below) or shall be attempted without belayed protection. The aggregate number of points achieved by a competitor shall determine a competitor's position in a round of the competition.

 

2.2. Difficulty and Difficulty-Duel competitions may include routes which are attempted:

 

a) On-sight: attempted after an authorised period of observation of the route;

b) After demonstration of the route by an authorised forerunner;

c) After authorised practice; i.e. 'after work'.

 

2.3. Speed Competitions include routes which are attempted after demonstration of the routes given by an authorised forerunner;

2.4. International competitions may consist of separate categories for Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering events. Not every category need be provided at all international competitions.

 

3. SAFETY

 

3.1 Safety matters are dealt with under Section 2, Member federations - Competition Organisation, Article 5 of these regulations.

 

4. REGISTRATION AND ISOLATION ZONE

 

4.1. All competitors eligible to compete in a round of a competition shall register and enter the isolation zone no later than the time specified by the President of the Jury and published/announced by the Competition Organiser. It is the responsibility of each team manager to ensure that he/she is fully informed of all details appertaining to a competition.

No competitor or Team Official is permitted to possess or use a cellular phone or similar electronic communication equipment; or a camera, video-camera or similar recording equipment in the isolation zone.

 

4.2. Only those persons specified below shall be permitted to enter the isolation zone:

 

a) ICC Officials;

b) Member federation/organiser's officials;

c) Competitors eligible to take part in the current round of the competition;

d)      Authorised team officials;

e)Other persons specifically authorised by the President of the Jury. Such persons shall, throughout their stay in the isolation zone, be escorted and supervised by an approved official to ensure the maintenance of security of the isolation zone and prevent any undue distraction of, or interference with, any competitor;

f)  Animals shall not be allowed in the isolation zone.

5. ROUTE OBSERVATION AND PRACTICE

 

5.1. Observation Period: Except where otherwise specified in the regulations governing Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed and Bouldering competitions, competitors who are registered to take part in a particular round of the competition heat shall be permitted an observation period before the start of a competition during which they shall be allowed to study the route. Team officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation period. While in the observation area, all competitors shall consider themselves as being under the regulations governing the isolation zone.

 

5.2. The observation period shall be decided by the President of the Jury in consultation with the International Forerunner and should normally not exceed six (6) minutes for each route. In the case of unusually long routes, the period may be extended.

 

5.3. Competitors must remain within the designated observation zone during the observation period. They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture. Competitors shall not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area. They may only seek clarification from either the President of the Jury or from the Category Judge.

 

5.4. During the observation period, competitors may use binoculars to observe the route and make hand-drawn sketches and notes. No other observation or recording equipment shall be permitted. Competitors are allowed to touch the first holds, without leaving the ground with their feet. It is the sole responsibility of each competitor to fully inform him/herself (within the regulations) in respect to all instructions regarding the route that are required to undertake.

 

5.5. Competitors shall have no knowledge of any route other than that obtained during the official observation period.

 

5.6. At the end of the observation period competitors shall immediately return to the isolation zone. Any undue delay to do so may result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any further delay shall result in immediate disqualification in accordance with the Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

 

5.7. Practised (worked) routes: Where pre-practised (worked) routes form part of the competition, the President of the Jury - in consultation with the International Forerunner - shall decide the timetable, procedure and duration of the competitors practice periods.

 

6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO CLIMBING

 

6.1. On receiving an official instruction to leave the isolation zone to proceed to the transit zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than an authorised official.

 

6.2. On arrival in the transit zone, each competitor shall put on their climbing shoes, tie on to the rope with the approved knot, and make all final preparations for their attempt on a route.

 

6.3. All climbing equipment and the knot used shall be inspected and approved by an authorised official both for safety and compliance with other ICC regulations before the competitor shall be permitted to proceed to their attempt on their route.

The approved knot is the "figure of eight" knot which is itself is secured with a safety knot.

Each competitor shall be regarded as entirely and solely responsible for the equipment and clothing that he/she intends to wear during their attempt on a route.

Use of non-approved equipment, knots and/or clothing, or any non-approved modification of the climbing vest, or any non-compliance of the advertising regulations, or any infringement of any part of the ICC regulations shall make the competitor liable for immediate disqualification. Under no circumstances shall competitors be permitted to return to the isolation zone after leaving for the transit area.

6.4. Each competitor shall be ready to leave the transit zone and enter the competition area when instructed to do so. Any undue delay to do so may result in the immediate award of a 'Yellow Card'; any further delay shall result in immediate disqualification in accordance with the Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

 

7. WALL MAINTENANCE

 

7.1. The Chief Routesetter shall ensure that an experienced and practised maintenance team is available throughout each round of the competition in order to perform any maintenance and repairs ordered by the Category Judge in an efficient and safe manner. Safety procedures shall be strictly enforced. The President of the Jury shall be authorised to demand the dismissal from the competition area of any person who fails to observe safety procedures.

 

7.2. Repair of holds: On the instruction of the Category Judge, the Chief Routesetter shall immediately arrange for any repair work. On completion of a repair, it shall be inspected by the International Forerunner who shall advise the President of the Jury whether the repair results in any unfair advantage or disadvantage to the following competitors. The decision of the President of the Jury to continue, or to stop and re-start, that round of the competition shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this decision.

 

7.3 Cleaning of the holds: The frequency and method of cleaning the holds on the climbing wall shall be decided by the Category Judge (in consultation with the International Forerunner) before the start of each round of the competition and be announced to the competitors during the technical meeting preceding the observation of the routes.

 

8. TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

 

8.1 A technical incident is defined as:

 

a) A tight rope which either assists or hinders a competitor;

b) A broken or loose hold;

c) An improperly positioned quickdraw or karabiner;

d) Any other occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor;

 

8.2 The belayer must leave an appropriate amount of slack in the rope at all times. Any tension on the rope may be deemed as an artificial aid or hindrance to a competitor and a technical incident shall be declared by the Category Judge.

 

8.3 A technical incident shall be dealt with as follows:

 

a) If a technical incident is indicated by the Category Judge:

(i)      If the competitor wishes, and is still in a legitimate position, he/she may choose to continue to climb or accept the technical incident. If the competitor chooses to continue to attempt the route no further appeal connected with that technical incident shall be accepted;

(ii)    If the competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to the technical incident, the Category

Judge shall make an immediate decision on whether to declare a technical incident and thereby terminate the competitor's attempt on the route (and in accordance with the rules governing technical incidents, permit the competitor a subsequent attempt).

 

b) If a technical incident is indicated by a competitor:

(i)      While the competitor is climbing , the competitor must specify the nature of the technical

incident and, with the agreement of the Category Judge, may continue or cease climbing. If the competitor elects to continue to climb, no subsequent appeal shall be accepted in respect to that technical incident. If the competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to the incident the Category Judge shall make an immediate decision and that decision shall be final.

(ii)     If a competitor falls and claims that a technical incident precipitated the fall, the competitor shall be immediately escorted to the special isolation zone to await the outcome of the investigation of the claimed technical incident. The Chief Routesetter shall immediately check (and where appropriate correct) the claimed technical incident and report to the International Forerunner, Category Judge and the President of the Jury. The decision of the President of the Jury (having taken into account the technical incident and any misuse of a hold by a competitor) shall be final and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this decision.

 

c)      The competitor subject to a confirmed technical incident shall be allowed a recuperation period in a separate isolation zone and must not be permitted to come into contact with any other person other than an ICC or Organiser's officials. The competitor must decide immediately when he/she wishes to start his/her next attempt on the route which must be either after the following competitor and before the fifth following competitor. If less than four competitors remain in the round the competitor shall be allowed to request up to a maximum of 20 minutes between attempts on the route;

 

d)      On completion of a legitimate attempt on a route, a competitor shall be recorded as having achieved the best result of their permitted attempts on the route.

 

9. RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

 

9.1. The ranking after each round of a Difficulty, Difficulty-Duel, Speed or Bouldering competition shall be determined in accordance with the relevant regulations governing that form of competition.

 

 

 

 

10. TERMINATION OF AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE

 

10.1. A competitor's attempt on a route shall be terminated in accordance with the relevant regulations governing that form of competition.

 

10.2. A competitor shall be permitted to down-climb at any time during their attempt on a route as long as he/she is not in violation of regulations governing the termination of an attempt on a route.

 

11. USE OF THE VIDEO FOR JUDGING PURPOSES

 

11.1. In the case where the Category Judge deems it appropriate to examine the video recording of the

attempt on a route by a competitor before making a decision, the Category Judge shall permit the competitor to complete their attempt in accordance with the rules of the competition. On completion of their attempt, the competitors shall be immediately informed by the Category Judge that their ranking in that round of the competition shall be subject to confirmation following an examination, at the end of the round, of the video recording.

 

11.2. Height Measurement: The official video recordings may be used by the Category Judge to confirm the 'hold/touch' rules in respect to height measurement and the ranking of competitors at the end of each round.

 

11.3. Video recordings for judging purposes:

a) Only the official video recordings (and no other recordings) shall be used by the Category Judge and the President of the Jury for judging purposes;

b) Video recordings shall only be used in respect to matters arising from Article 3.1 and 3.2 above;

c) The viewing of the official video recording shall be restricted to the President of the Jury, the Category Judge, the International Forerunner, and the ICC Delegate.


 

II. DIFFICULTY COMPETITIONS REGULATIONS

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. These regulations shall be read in conjunction with the ICC's General Regulations governing international climbing competitions.

 

1.2. All Difficulty competition routes shall be climbed on-lead with the competitor belayed from below.

 

1.3. A route shall be considered successfully completed if it is climbed in accordance with the regulations and rules governing Difficulty competitions and if the rope is safely clipped into the karabiner on the final quickdraw by the competitor from a legitimate position.

 

2.             STARTING ORDER

 

2.1 Where the opening round of a competition takes place on a single route, the starting order for this round shall be determined by random selection.

2.2 Where the opening round of a competition takes place on two or more similar routes, the competitors shall be allocated to each route of this round in accordance with:

Firstly, their respective positions in the current World Cup Ranking (WCR); i.e. in sequence, the WCR ranked competitors shall be allocated successively between the routes. Not ranked competitors shall then be allocated to each route by means of random selection such that an equal (or approximately equal) number of competitors are allocated to each route. Following this allocation procedure, the starting order shall then be determined by the random selection of competitors allocated to a route.

 

2.3 Starting order for the rounds following the opening round: Except as specified below, the starting order shall be determined by the reverse order of the ranking of the previous round (i.e. the first shall start last). In the case of tied competitors from a previous round, the starting order between them shall be made through random selection.

 

2.4 Superfinal: The starting order shall be the same as for the final round of the competition.

 

 

 

3. OBSERVATION PERIOD

 

3.1. In accordance with the General Regulations, competitors (as a group) shall be permitted to observe the on-sight route they are required to attempt.

 

3.2. In the case of the superfinal, the President of the Jury may decide not to permit an observation period.

 

 

 

4. CLIMBING PROCEDURE

 

4.1. Each route shall be allocated a pre-designated period in which a competitor may attempt the route. This time period shall include a 40 second final preparation period, at the base of the route, described in Article 4.2 below.

 

4.2. On entering the competition area at the base of the climbing wall, the competitor shall be required to immediately step over the official start line. At that point, the Category Judge shall start (or give instruction to start) the recording of the time taken by a competitor in attempting the route. Each competitor shall be permitted 40 seconds to commence their attempt on the route. If the competitor has not started their attempt at the end of this 40 second period they shall be instructed to start immediately. The 40 second final observation period shall be part of the overall time for the route. Any further delay shall make the competitor liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

 

4.3. Each competitor's attempt shall be deemed to have started when both feet have left the ground.

 

4.4. A competitor may ask the Category Judge at any time during their attempt on their route how much of their allotted route-time remains, and the Category Judge shall immediately inform the competitor of the remaining time. The Category Judge shall also inform a competitor when only 60 seconds of the allocated route-time remains. When the route-time has ended, the Category Judge shall stop the competitor and instruct the measurement procedure to take place. A competitor who fails to obey the Category Judge's instruction to stop climbing shall be liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

 

4.5. During their attempt on a route:

 

a) Each competitor shall snaplink each karabiner/quickdraw in sequence. Each karabiner must be snaplinked before the lowest part of the competitor's body has moved above the lowest karabiner connected to a quickdraw (in the case of a traverse or roof section of the route, before the competitor's body has moved beyond an unclipped karabiner/quickdraw in the line of the route as defined by the International Forerunner). Any violation of this rule shall result in the competitor's attempt on the route being terminated and a measurement taken in accordance with Article 5 below. The refusal by a competitor to obey the instruction of a Category Judge to terminate their attempt on a route shall make the competitor liable to the disciplinary procedures specified in Section 6, Disciplinary Procedures During Competitions.

b) In special circumstances (e.g. in the interests of safety) the President of the Jury shall be authorised to amend Article 4.5(a) above for a particular route; in this case the last legitimate position to clip is the last hold from which the competitor can clip without down climbing or back climbing.

c) A competitor may down-climb at any point during their attempt on a route as long as he/she is not in violation of Article 4.5.a) or returns to the ground.

d) Where a competitor clips the rope into a karabiner in accordance with Article 4.5(a) above but where some technical error has occurred, the competitor shall be permitted to clip the next karabiner in sequence and then unclip and re-clip (if necessary, by down-climbing) the previous karabiner. At the end, all the protection points must be clipped in.

The Category Judge may order that the attempt be terminated and the greatest height (or greatest distance) measured if the he/she decides that to proceed further would contravene the safety regulations.

 

5. HEIGHT MEASUREMENT

 

5.1. In accordance with Article 8 below, in the event of a fall or the Category Judge instructing a competitor to stop climbing, the highest hold held or touched (or in the case of a traverse or roof section of a route, the furthest hold held or touched), in the line of the route as determined by the International Forerunner, shall be measured. Each hold shall be deemed as such by the International Forerunner before the start of a round of the competition or following positive use by a competitor during that round of the competition.

 

5.2. Only holds used by the hands shall be considered. As determined by the Category Judge, a hold that is 'held' shall be considered as having a higher ranking than a hold that is 'touched':

 

a) A hold that is 'held' shall be given the height of the hold with no suffix;

b) A hold that is 'touched' shall be given that height with a minus (-) suffix;

c) A hold which is 'held' and from which a climbing movement is made in the interest of progressing along the route shall be given that height of the hold 'held' with a plus (+) suffix.

 

5.3. If a competitor touches a point devoid of holds (as specified by the International Forerunner), this point shall not be included in any measurement of the maximum height (or, in the case of a traverse or roof section of the route, the greatest distance) achieved by the competitor.

5.4. If a competitor takes hold of the final quickdraw before the rope is safely clipped into the final karabiner this shall be considered as an artificial aid and the competitor's attempt on the route shall be terminated and measured in accordance with Article 5.1 and Article 5.2.

 

6. RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND OF THE COMPETITION

 

6.1. After each round of the competition, the competitors shall be ranked according to Article 5.2.

 

6.2. In the case of tied places, a countback procedure shall be used such that the results of the previous round shall be taken into account in separating tied competitors. If ties remain, successively earlier rounds shall be taken into account in the countback procedure. The countback procedure shall not apply to that round where competitors have competed, split in to two groups, on two or more non-identical routes.

 

6.3. When not otherwise specified in the competition format, if a qualifying round of a competition requires that the competitors be allocated between two or more non-identical routes having the same technical grade, for those competitors who do not qualify for the following round, the final ranking shall be determined by the aggregate place achieved on the ranking of the combined routes.

 

6.4. Superfinal: If, after applying the countback procedure at the end of the final round of the competition, there exists a tie for the first place a superfinal shall be held. If a tie exists at the end of a superfinal, the competitors that remain tied shall be deemed equal and the competition will be terminated.

 

7. QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND

 

7.1. Article 7 must be read in conjunction with Article 6 above; i.e. the ranking procedure must first be completed before Article 7 is applied.

 

7.2. Where there are insufficient competitors who have successfully completed the route in the preceding round of the competition, the remaining places of the fixed quota shall be filled by the next best ranked competitors.

 

7.3. The fixed quota of competitors qualifying for the semi-final and final shall be, respectively, 26 and 8 competitors.

 

7.4. Semi-Final and Final Rounds - Floating Quotas: If the fixed quotas for the semi-final and final rounds of the competition are exceeded as a result of tied places following the application of the countback procedure, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from above and below) shall qualify for the next round of the competition subject to the condition that the semi-final and final rounds shall consist of, respectively, not less than 20 and 6 competitors;

 

If this number is the same when calculated from above and below, the number of competitorscorresponding to the greater quota qualify for the final round.

Under special circumstances (e.g. TV live broadcasting requirements), the smaller quota may be taken: this decision shall be announced by the President of the Jury after consulting the organiser, in the technical meeting prior to the competition.

 

8. TERMINATION OF AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE

 

8.1. Successful Attempt on a Route: A competitor shall be deemed to have successfully completed an attempt on a route if that attempt is in accordance with Article 1.3 above.

 

8.2. Unsuccessful Attempt on a Route: A competitor shall be deemed to have unsuccessfully completed an attempt in a route if he/she:

a) Falls;

b) Exceeds the permitted time for the route;

c) Touches any part of the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route;

d) Uses the side-edges or top-edges of the wall;

e) Fails to snap link a quickdraw in accordance with regulations governing the competition;

f) Once having started, touches the ground with any part of the body;

g) Uses any artificial aid.

III. DIFFICULTY-DUEL COMPETITIONS REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. Difficulty-Duel competitions are a variant of the Difficulty and Speed competitions in that:

 

a) The rounds of the competition preceding the final round shall be conducted in accordance with the regulations governing Difficulty competitions;

b) The final round of a Difficulty-Duel competition shall be conducted in accordance with the regulations governing Difficulty competitions but adopting the same competitor-elimination ('knock-out') format as that adopted for Speed competitions.

 

2. FINAL ROUND - QUOTAS

 

2.1. In accordance with Article 6 of the Difficulty Regulations, the ranking procedure must first be completed before Article 2 of the Difficulty-Duel Regulations are applied.

 

2.2. Semi-Final and Final - Fixed Quotas:

 

a) The fixed quota for the semi-final (Difficulty Regulations) and final (Difficulty-Duel Regulations) shall be, respectively, 26 and 8 competitors;

b) Ties at the end of the semi-final round for the last place in the final shall be broken by taking into account a competitor's time in achieving the height on which the tie exists.

 

2.3. Final Round: If in a heat of the final round of a Difficulty-Duel competition, competitors achieve the same height and are tied, the tie shall be broken on the basis of the minimum time taken by a competitor to achieve that height.

3. FINAL ROUND - STARTING ORDER

 

3.1. Following the ranking of the semi-final round and following, where relevant, the count-back procedure (Difficulty Regulations) and the semi-final tie-break procedure specified in Article 2.3(c) has been employed, the starting order shall be in accordance with that specified for 16 and 8 competitors in the regulations governing Speed competitions.

 


IV. BOULDERING COMPETITIONS REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

These Rules shall be read in conjunction with the General Regulations and Rules governing World Cup Climbing Competitions.

 

2. GENERAL

 

2.1. Bouldering competitions consist in a series of short routes, usually called problems. All problems shall be climbed without ropes. The number of handholds in each problem shall be at most 12 and the average number of handholds for each problem in one round shall be between 4 and 8.

 

2.2. All problems shall be protected by landing mats. It is the responsibility of the route-setter to decide the size and the position of the mats. If different mats are joined, the mats shall be covered to make it impossible for the climbers to fall in-between them.

 

2.3. Bouldering competitions shall consist of one round, or two rounds, named qualifying and final round. In case of unforeseen events the qualification round can be cancelled. For the same reason the number of problems may be reduced at the discretion of the President of the Jury.

 

2.4. The number of problems in the qualification round must be not less than 4 and not more than 8. The minumum number of problems in the final round shall be 6.

 

2.5.       For safety reasons, the problems should be made in such a way that the lowest part of the body of the climber shall never be higher than 3 metres above the landing mat.

 

2.6.       Also for safety reasons, downward jumps shall not be designed.

 

2.6. The jury of each problem shall consist of two judges. At least one of them must be a national judge.

 

2.7. Each problem shall have a pre-designated starting position from which all attempts must start. It shall consist of at least fixed and marked positions for the two hands, and may include fixed and marked positions for either one or both feet. These starting positions must be clearly marked, and the marking must be the same for all the problems. At the discretion of the International Forerunner the pre- designated starting holds may be labeled left or right.

 

2.8. One bonus point will be awarded for holding a specified hold on the problem. The positioning of this hold will be at the Route Setters discretion. This hold must be clearly marked, and the colour used should be different from that used to mark the starting and finishing holds. The bonus point will be awarded also in the case of a climber having successfully completed an attempt without having held the bonus hold.

 

2.9. The finishing hold must be clearly marked in the same color as the starting hold(s). In some cases it is possible that successful completion of the problem can be attained by a standing position on the top of the problem.

 

2.10. If necessary, a red marking can be used to define the boundaries of a problem.

 

2.11. The markings used in points 2.7 to 2.10 will be the same for all the competition. An example must be installed on the isolation zone practice wall.

 

3. OBSERVATION PERIOD

 

3.1. No separate observation period is allowed as the observation period is part of the allocated time

for the problem.

3.2. Competitors must remain within the designated observation zone during the observation period.

They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture. Competitors shall not communicate in any way with any person outside the observation area. They may only seek clarification from either the President of the Jury, a Category Judge or one of the route judges assigned to the problem. Touching holds others than the starting holds shall be considered an infringement of the Disciplinary Regulations Art. 2.4. a) (i).

 

4. CLIMBING PROCEDURE

 

4.1. In each round of the competition, competitors must attempt a number of problems. After each problem the climber has a rest-period equal to the allocated problem time. The President of the Jury must announce/publish the number and sequence of problems to be attempted in each round before the start of the round. Each route must include a clearly marked area from which the competitor can see the route. This area must not allow observation of any other routes and must include the safety matting.

 

4.2. In accordance with the Regulations and Rules governing Bouldering competitions, each problem shall be allocated a pre designated period of time, in which a competitor may attempt the route as many times as he/she wants. The period of time for each problem is the same for all problems in a given round. The amount of permitted time must be announced/published by the President of the Jury and must not be less than 4 minutes and no more than 8 minutes. In the final round the permitted time shall be 6 minutes.

 

4.3. The beginning (and ending) of every period of time shall be announced by a loud and clear signal. At this signal the competitors that are climbing must stop climbing and enter the resting area. This area must not allow observation of any other problems. The climber who has finished his/her resting period must move on to the next problem.

 

4.4. An attempt on a problem is deemed to have started when every part of the body of the competitor has left the ground.

 

4.5. The last minute from the allocated time will be announced with a defined signal.

 

4.6. Brushes may be used by competitors to clean holds that may be reached from the ground. Only brushes that are provided by the organization and that are available at every problem must be used for this purpose. Any personal cleaning system is forbidden.

 

4.7. The use of any other substance but chalk can only be authorized by the President of the Jury in accordance with the organization.

 

5. END OF AN ATTEMPT

 

5.1. An attempt is considered successful when the finishing hold is held with both hands and the judge announces "OK".

 

5.2. An attempt is considered finished in the case of a return to the ground or at the end of the allocated rotation time.

 

5.3. The competitor will be stopped if he/she trespasses the problems boundaries or uses a forbidden hold.

 

 

6. TECHNICAL INCIDENT

 

6.1. If the technical incident can be repaired before the end of the current climbing period the climber involved will be offered the opportunity to continue with his/her attempts. If the climber elects to continue then the technical incident is finished and no further appeals shall be allowed. If the climber elects to not continue his/her attempts within the current climbing period then the climber will resume their attempts after completing the competition round. In this instance the President of the Jury will decide when a gap of time has to be made to allow the victim of the technical incident to continue their attempts. The climber will be allowed the time remaining at the moment when the incident occurred, with a minimum of two minutes.

 

6.2. If the incident can not be repaired before the end of the rotation time, at the signal announcing the end of the rotation time, the round will be stopped for the climber, victim of the incident, as well as for all the climbers on the preceding problems. For all the other climbers, the round continues. After repair, the climber, victim of the incident, will be allowed the time remaining at the moment the incident occurred, with a minimum of two minutes in a rotation time. After this time, the competition starts again at the rotation signal for all the climbers.

 

6.3. In the event of a technical incident occurring, the first attempt taken by the competitor victim of the incident (on the same problem) after the attempt in which the technical incident occurred, shall be deemed a continuation of that attempt.

 

 

 

 

 

7. RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

 

7.1. After each round of the competition the competitors shall be ranked according to the following criteria :

a) The number of successfully completed problems.

b) The total number of attempts to complete the problems (if completed).

c) The total number of bonus points.

d) The total number of attempts to complete these bonus points.

 

7.2. In the case of tied places, the results of the successively preceding rounds shall be taken into account in the count-back procedure. The countback procedure shall not apply to that round where competitors have competed, split into two or more groups.

 

7.3. Superfinals: If after applying the count-back procedure there exists a tie for first place at the end of the final round, a superfinal shall be held on one problem.

Each competitor bracketed equal will try only one attempt in the same order as for the final, a pre-designated period is fixed in accordance with the route-setter and the attempt must be started before 40 seconds. The performance of each competitor will be judged following article 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 of Difficulty Competition Regulations. After their attempt, they are ranked, if several competitors have reached the top, they are deemed equal and the final ranking is announced. If nobody has reached the top and if there are still tied climbers in the first place, the climbers in the first place shall make another attempt following the same procedure until they are separated, up to a maximum of 6 attempts. If a tie exists at the end of the superfinal, the competitors shall be deemed equal.

 

8. QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND

 

8.1. This article must be read in conjunction with Article 7 of the Bouldering Regulations i.e. the ranking procedure must first be completed before Article 8 applies.

 

8.2. Where there are insufficient competitors who have successfully completed the problems in the preceding round of the competition, the remaining places of fixed quota shall be filled by the next best-ranked competitors.

 

 

8.3. A competition consists of 2 rounds, one qualification round and one final round.

 

The fixed quota for the final round shall be 8. If this quota is exceeded as a result of tied places following the ranking of the qualification round, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from below and above the fixed quota) shall qualify for the final round. Where the difference between the fixed quota is identical when calculated from below and above the quota, the greater number of competitors shall qualify.

 

8.4. If there are two groups in the qualification round, the fixed quota for the next round shall be equally divided and applied to both groups.

 

 

9. APPEALS PROCEDURE

 

9.1. Any appeal against an official decision shall be made in accordance with the ICC Appeals Procedure.

 


V. SPEED COMPETITIONS REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. These Regulations shall be read in conjunction with the ICC General Regulations.

 

1.2. All speed competitions shall be climbed with the competitor secured by means of a top-rope belayed from below. The rope must be a UIAA approved single rope.

 

1.3. Speed competitions shall consist of two stages:

a) the qualification round of the competition;

b) the final round of the competition which may consist of an eighth final, and always a quarter final, semi final and final.

 

2. COMPETITION ROUTES

 

2.1. Speed competitions shall always consist of two routes that shall be of the same length and of similar profile and difficulty.

 

2.2. If Qualification and Final rounds are held:

a) on the same day: the routes for both rounds shall be the same.

b) on different days: the routes for each rounds may be slightly different. Competitors shall be informed about that in advance.

 

2.3. The height of a route is recommended to be within 12-20 metres, with the total overhang being less than 5 metres. If the route is stepped, the roof width is recommended to be less than 1 metre.

 

2.4.       Safety

a) The top rope shall pass through two separate protection points; each consisting of one locking karabiner secured to the protection point by a quick-draw sling and a 10mm Maillon Rapide closed in accordance with the manufacturer's specification.

b)      The position of the final protection points must be above the switch controlling the timing device or finishing signal for the route.

c)      The climbing rope shall be connected to each competitor's harness. Connection must be either:

i. by the approved knot (i.e. tying-in)

ii. or by clipping a pre tied approved knot in the rope to the harness by a screwgate karabiner(s) that minimise the possibility of cross loading and of the possibility of roll out of the rope through the gate.

 

2.5.       The position of the protection points shall be such as to neither assist, hinder and/or endanger a competitor during his/her attempt on a route.

 

2.6. Belaying

a) Each rope shall be controlled by two belayers.

b) The belayers shall be situated in a position at the bottom of the wall such as to prevent accidents due to falling holds or other equipment, that may occur during climbing.

 

2.7. All excess equipment (karabiners, quickdraws, bolts, etc.) shall be removed from the routes.

 

2.8. The routes should be designed such that the competitors cannot interfere or unduly distract each another. If the axis of the routes is not vertical, it shall be diverted towards opposite directions.

 

3. ROUTE TIMING

 

3.1.       The time of the route shall be determined by:

 

a)      A mechanical-electrical switch controlling the route timing system with an accuracy of 0.01 of a second. Should this timing system suffer a failure during any attempt, a technical incident shall be called for both competitors. Hand-timing (manual stop-watches usually accurate to 0.2 second) shall not be used to determine the result of the attempt.

b) Manual timing: Each route shall be equipped with a switch operating a red-coloured indicator light and, preferably, an audible signal. Each route shall be timed by a Category Judge and two assistants, operating a stopwatch each. The competitors time (completing his/her attempt) shall be recorded by the Category Judge taking into account the average of the stop watches, eliminating obvious spurious timing errors.

 

 

4. NUMBER OF COMPETITORS, RANKING AND STARTING ORDER

 

4.1. Each competitor shall be ranked in accordance with the aggregate time achieved on both routes.

A competitor shall not be deemed to have successfully completed an attempt on a route if he/she:

a)Falls;

b)            Exceeds the permitted time for the route;

c)Touches any part of the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route;

d)            Uses the side-edges or the top edges of the wall;

e)Once having started, touches the ground with any part of the body;

f) Uses any artificial aid.

 

4.2. Qualification Round: The starting order of the qualification round shall be set by random selection. Each competitor shall proceed by first climbing Route A (or 1).

Following the successful completion of this he/she shall proceed to climb Route B (or 2).

 

4.3. Qualification Round - Ranking: If a competitor fails to complete one of the routes, he/she shall be eliminated and ranked in last position.

 

4.4. Final Round - number of competitors:

a)When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round is 16 or more then 16 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round;

b)When the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round is less than 16 then 8 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round.

 

4.5. Final Round: The Final Rounds shall take place as a series knock-out rounds, decided on the aggregate time achieved by competitors on both routes..

Overall results of the losers of the pairs in the eight final (9-16 places) and in the quarter final (5-8 places) shall be decided in accordance with their times in the heat.

 

4.6. The starting order for the first set of the Final Round (pairs) shall be set in accordance with the final ranking of the Qualification Round, as follows:

Scheme 1) : 16 competitors:

Competitor Ranked Competitor Ranked

Heat 1: 1 with 16

Heat 2: 8 with 9

Heat 3: 4 with 13

Heat 4: 5 with 12

Heat 5: 2 with 15

Heat 6: 7 with 10

Heat 7: 3 with 14

Heat 8: 6 with 11

Scheme 2) : 8 competitors:

Competitor Ranked Competitor Ranked

Heat 1: 1 with 8

Heat 2: 4 with 5

Heat 3: 2 with 7

Heat 4: 3 with 6

 

The starting order for other stages of the Final Round is shown by the Schemes 1 and 2 (see Appendix).

 

4.7. Failure to complete a route in the Final Round:

a)   Semi final and Final heats. If one competitor fails to complete either route they are eliminated and the other competitor is declared the winner of that heat. If both competitors fails to complete both routes then the heat must be re-run immediately.

b) The third and fourth place heat must always take place and must always produce a winner.

c)   Final. If both competitors in the Final fail to complete both routes, then the Final shall be rerun until a winner is decided.

 

4.8. Tied competitors:

a) Qualification Round - if two or more competitors are tied for the last qualifying place in the Final Round none shall proceed into the Final Round. They shall be ranked equally.

b) Final Round - when two competitors are tied in the semi final and final heats, the winner shall be determined by an additional elimination heat(s) between the two competitors.

c) Final Round - when two competitors are tied in any other heats the winner shall be determined by their results of the preceding heat of the Final Round or by their results of the Qualification Round (for the first heat of the Final Round).

 

4.9. Preliminary information (ranking place and times of each competitor in each round of the competition) shall be provided to spectators and coaches directly after determining results:

a)      on electronic display (board or screen) or

b) by information posters or blackboard, if a) is not possible.

 

4.10. Overall results shall report the competitors achieved times on all routes and in all rounds.

 

5. DEMONSTRATION AND OBSERVATION PERIOD

 

5.1.    Route A is shall be demonstrated by International Forerunner or route setter twice. First at slow

speed, and second at race speed. This will be followed by an observation period (maximum 6

minutes).

 

5.2. Immediately after 5.1., the same procedure will be repeated for route B.

 

5.3  Each observation period shall take place in accordance with the General Regulations.

 

6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO CLIMBING

 

6.1. Preparation prior to climbing shall be in accordance with the General Regulations.

 

6.2. Qualification Round: After a successful performance competitors shall return to the isolation zone where they shall remain until the Route Judge requests them to leave it. Competitors qualified for the Final Round, shall stay in the isolation zone after the end of the Qualification Round.

 

6.3. Final Rounds: When a heat is completed, competitors qualified for the following heat shall return to the isolation zone.

 

7. CLIMBING PROCEDURE

 

7.1. On being called to the start of a route by the Category Judge, each competitor shall take up a starting position consisting of one foot on the floor and the other on the first hold, with one or both hands on the first handhold.

 

7.2. When both competitors are in position, the Category Judge shall ask: "Ready?. After getting confirmation from both competitors, the Category Judge shall call Attention and after a short pause (1 - 2 second) the Category Judge shall give a short (0.1-0.2 sec) and loud (clearly) audible starting signal or call "Go!" where manual timing is used.

 

7.3. The position of the starting signal should be equidistant from both competitors.

 

7.4. On being given the instruction or signal to start, each competitor shall commence his/her attempt on the route. No appeal against the starting instruction shall be allowed unless the competitor clearly calls that he/she is not ready when the Category Judge asks: "Ready?"

 

7.5. When the Category Judge is giving starting instruction, there shall not be any kind of noise or other distraction which might prevent the starting signal being clearly heard by competitors and/or Judges.

 

7.6. In the case of a false start, the Route Judge shall stop both competitors immediately. This instruction shall be clear and loud.

A competitor committing two false starts in the same heat is eliminated.

 

7.7. If one competitor suffers a technical incident during any Final Rounds heat and interrupts his/her attempt, his/her opponent competitor shall continue to climb, only the competitor who suffered the technical incident shall be allowed to re-start (alone).

 

7.8. At the top of the route each competitor shall stop the timing device by striking the switch with

his/her hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Appendix

 

Scheme 1) - 16 competitors:

 

1

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


4

 

 

 

13

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

3

 

1

 

8

 

4

 
 

 


Scheme 2) 8 competitors

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



SECTION FIVE

 


INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS

 

 

I. WORLD CUP SERIES REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. In accordance with the Statutes of the ICC, a World Cup Championship series of international competitions shall be organised each year.

 

1.2. The ICC may approve up to a maximum of ten (10) World Cup competitions each year for each discipline (difficulty, speed, bouldering).

 

1.3. Each World Cup competition approved by the ICC shall include categories for men and women. No competitor under the age of 16 years shall be permitted to compete in a World Cup competition.

 

1.4. Each World Cup competition shall include either a difficulty competition, or a speed competition, or a bouldering competition, or all or two of them.

 

1.5. World Cup competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of a World Cup competition shall be two (2) days, if including only one discipline, three (3) days with two disciplines (e.g. speed and difficulty), four (4) days with all three disciplines (speed, difficulty and bouldering).

 

1.6. At the end of each World Cup competition, the winners of the men and women's Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering competitions shall be awarded a trophy by the member federation-organiser.

 

1.7. At the conclusion of the final competition of the annual series, the World Cup shall be awarded to the competitor(s) achieving the highest number of points in accordance with these regulations.

 

1.8. On completion of each World Cup series of competitions, the winner of both the men's and women's categories shall be awarded a World Cup trophy. In addition, the first three competitors in both the men's and women's categories shall be awarded, respectively, gold, silver and bronze medals, provided by the ICC.

 

2. DIFFICULTY COMPETITIONS

 

2.1. Each World Cup difficulty competition shall include:

 

a) Quarter-Final (1/4) round - which shall take place on two identical or non-identical routes. In the case of non-identical routes, these shall be of the same technical grade and similar route character;

b) Semi-final (1/2), Final and (where necessary) Superfinal rounds - which shall take place on one route.

 

3. SPEED COMPETITIONS

 

3.1. Each World Cup speed competition shall, in accordance with the regulations governing these type of competition, include:

 

a) A Qualification round;

b) A Final round

4. BOULDERING COMPETITIONS

 

4.1. Each World Cup Bouldering competition shall include, in accordance with the regulations governing this type of competition, one, or either two rounds, named qualifying and final rounds.

 

5. POINTS TO BE AWARDED FOR EACH WORLD CUP COMPETITION

 

5.1. At the end of each World Cup competition, the first thirty (30) competitors in each of the men's and women's categories shall be awarded the following points:

 

1st 100 points 11th 31 points 21st 10 points

2nd 80 points 12th 28 points 22nd 9 points

3rd 65 points 13th 26 points 23rd 8 points

4th 55 points 14th 24 points 24th 7 points

5th 51 points 15th 22 points 25th 6 points

6th 47 points 16th 20 points 26th 5 points

7th 43 points 17th 18 points 27th 4 points

8th 40 points 18th 16 points 28th 3 points

9th 37 points 19th 14 points 29th 2 points

10th 34 points 20th 12 points 30th 1 point

 

6. POINTS COUNTING TOWARDS THE AWARD OF THE WORLD CUP

6.1. The points awarded after each World Cup competition shall be aggregated as specified in Article 6.2 below. The aggregate points shall be recalculated after each World Cup competition and the competitors having World Cup points shall be ranked in descending order of points accumulated. The World Cup Ranking (WCR) for Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering shall be published after each round of the World Cup series of competitions.

6.2. The maximum number of points a competitor can accumulate towards the final ranking of the World Cup championship shall be as follows:

 

a) When 9 or 10 competitions are organised: a maximum of the 8 best results shall count;

b) When 8 competitions are organised: a maximum of 7 best results shall count;

c) When 7 or less competitions are organised, all competitions shall count.

 

7. AWARD OF THE WORLD CUP IN THE EVENT OF A TIE FOR FIRST PLACE

 

7.1. Tie between two competitors for first place: If a tie between two competitors for the first place in the World Cup Championship exists at the completion of the final World Cup competition of the year, the tied competitors shall be assessed with a view to breaking the tie by comparing the individual rankings in those competitions in which the competitors have been in direct competition with each other - i.e. the number of 'better' places in competitions in which they have competed against each other. If a tie remains unbroken following this assessment, the competitors shall be regarded as tied and a joint-World Cup Champion shall be declared.

 

8. REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS BY MEMBER FEDERATIONS

8.1. Member federations shall be permitted to register, on the ICC official registration form, the following competitors (where applicable):

 

a) National team quota - Non-host country:

Each member federation shall be permitted to enter three (3) official team members in both the men's and women's categories.

 

b) National team quota - Host country: The member federation responsible for hosting and organising a World Cup competition shall be permitted to enter the following competitors:

six (6) official team members in both the men's and women's categories. If a member Federation organises more than two events in the same discipline, this rule applies to two events only. Events will be chosen by the Member federation before the season start, otherwise the rule (double quota) automatically applies to the first two events staged in that country.

c) Pre-Qualified Competitors:

 

At the end of each calendar year, the first 10 men and the first 10 women listed in the relevant World Cup Ranking (or in its absence, listed in the relevant CUWR) shall enter the new annual season of competitions as Pre-Qualified Competitors. Member federations may enter these competitors in addition to those specified in Article 8.1.a and 8.1.b above. This list is subject to change during the year at the half season point, as established by the ICC.

d)            Supplementary lists

 

Each Member federation shall be permitted to register, on the ICC official registration form, additional competitors in a Supplementary List. The registration of these competitors will be confirmed by the ICC provided that the total number of competitors proposed by the organising Federation has not been exceeded. In such cases, available places, exceeding the quota filled by National Team and 1st Int. Series competitors, will be equally shared among the requesting Federations.

 

All official team members and pre-qualified competitors must be accepted by the organisers.

 

The minimum number of competitors that each organiser must accept is established at 100 men and 100 women.

 

 

9. PRIZES

 

9.1 The minimum amount of prizes is established by the ICC Plenary Assembly for each season. The

list of prizes is established by the ICC Board in accordance with the Organising Committee when

exceeding this minimum, as described in the relevant Appendix.

 

10. COMPETITOR QUOTAS FOR EACH ROUND OF A COMPETITION

 

10.1. Difficulty Competitions:

 

a) The fixed quotas for the semi-final and final rounds shall be, respectively, 26 and 8 competitors;

b) Floating Quotas - World Cup Semi-final and Final Rounds: If the fixed quotas for the semi-final and final rounds of the competition are exceeded as a result of tied places following the application of the countback procedure, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated from above and below) shall qualify for the next round of the competition subject to the condition that the semi-final and final rounds shall consist of, respectively, not less than 20 and 6 competitors.

 

10.2. Bouldering Competitions:

 

a) The fixed quota for the final round shall be 8 competitors;

 

10.3. Speed Competitions:

 

Final Round:

a)      In case the number of competitors entering the Qualification Round is 16 or more, then 16 competitors shall qualify for the Final Round;

b)      In case the number of competitors entering Qualification Round is less than 16 then 8 competitors shall qualify for to the Final Round.

 

 


II. WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. In accordance with the Statutes of the ICC, a World Championship competition shall be organised every second, odd-numbered, year.

 

1.2. Each World Championship competition approved by the ICC shall include categories for men and women. No competitor under the age of 16 years shall be permitted to compete in a World Championship competition.

 

1.3. Each World Championship competition shall include a difficulty competition, a speed competition and a bouldering competition.

 

1.4. World Championship competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of a World Championship shall be five (5) days.

 

1.5. The winners of both the men's and women's categories of the Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering competitions shall be awarded, respectively, gold, silver and bronze medals. In addition, the first three competitors in both the men's and women's Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering categories shall be awarded a World Championship trophy.

 

1.6. Member federations are eligible to organise stand as candidate to organise a World Championship, only when they have organised a World Cup event in the two years previous to the Championship

 

2. DIFFICULTY, SPEED AND BOULDERING COMPETITIONS

 

2.1.      Each World Championship difficulty, bouldering and speed competitions shall be organised following the ICC approved format

 

3.            REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS BY MEMBER FEDERATIONS

 

3.1.      Member Federations shall be permitted to register on the ICC official registration form the following competitors (where applicable):

a)      five (5) official team members in both the mens and womens categories

b)      the current reigning World Champions, in both the mens and womens categories

c)      the current reigning Continental Champions in both the mens and womens categories

 

 

 


III. WORLD YOUTH CHAMPIONSHIPS REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. In accordance with the Statutes of the ICC, a World Youth Championship competition shall be organised every year.

 

1.2. Each World Youth Championship competition approved by the ICC shall include categories for male and female competitors.

 

1.3. Each World Youth Championship competition shall include a difficulty competition and a speed competition.

 

1.4. Member federations are eligible to stand as candidate to organise a World Youth Championship, only when they have organised an ICC International Youth event in the two years previous to the Championship

 

1.5. World Youth Championship competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of a World Youth Championship shall be three (3) days. Special consideration shall be given to determining the dates of such competitions in order to minimise problems associated with attendance at educational institutions.

 

1.6. The winners of both the male and female categories of the Difficulty and Speed competitions shall be awarded, respectively, gold, silver and bronze medals. In addition, the first three competitors in both the men's and women's Difficulty and Speed categories shall be awarded a World Youth Championship trophy.

 

2. AGE CATEGORIES

 

2.1. The World Youth Championship shall include both Difficulty and Speed categories for the following age groups:

 

a) Category 1: For the year of the competition, competitors eligible to register for this category must have been borne either 14 or 15 calendar years earlier; e.g. those competing in a World Youth Championship in 2001 must be borne in either 1987 or 1986.

b) Category 2: For the year of the competition, competitors eligible to register for this category must have been borne either 16 or 17 calendar years earlier; e.g. those competing in a World Youth Championship in 2001 must be borne in either 1985 or 1984.

c) Category 3 - Junior World Championship: For the year of the competition, competitors eligible to register for this category must have been borne either 18 or 19 calendar years earlier; e.g. those competing in a World Youth Championship in 2000 must be borne in either 1983 or 1982.

 

3. DIFFICULTY AND SPEED COMPETITIONS

 

3.1. Each World Youth Championship difficulty and speed competitions shall be organised following the ICC approved format.

 

4.            REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS BY MEMBER FEDERATIONS

 

4.1.      Member Federations shall be permitted to register on the ICC official registration form the following competitors (where applicable):

 

a)      Four (4) official team members in both the mens and womens categories

 

 

 

 


IV. CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS REGULATIONS

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. In accordance with the Statutes of the ICC, the following continental championships may be organised each year:

 

a) Asian Championship;

b) European Championship;

c) North American Championship;

d) Oceanian Championship;

e) South American Championship.

 

1.2. In accordance with the Statutes of the ICC and subject to the approval of the ICC, the Continental Councils are entirely responsible for the organisation of these championships which shall be undertaken in accordance with the ICC regulations governing international competition climbing.

 

1.3. Only members of the countries who are members of each Continental Council shall be eligible to take part in these championships.

 

1.4. Each Continental Championship competition approved by the ICC shall include categories for men and women. No competitor under the age of 16 years shall be permitted to compete in a Continental Championship competition.

 

1.5. Each Continental Championship competition shall include a difficulty competition, a speed competition and a bouldering competition.

 

1.6. Continental Championship competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of a Continental Championship shall be five (5) days.

 

1.7. The winners of both the men's and women's categories of the Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering competitions shall be awarded, respectively, gold, silver and bronze medals. In addition, the first three competitors in both the men's and women's Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering categories shall be awarded a Continental Championship trophy.

 

2. DIFFICULTY, SPEED AND BOULDERING COMPETITIONS

 

2.1.      The Continental Championship difficulty, bouldering and speed competitions shall be organised following the ICC approved format.

 

3. REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS BY MEMBER FEDERATIONS

 

3.1. Member Federations shall be permitted to register on the ICC official registration form the

following competitors (where applicable):

a)Five (5) official team members in both the mens and womens categories

b)      The current reigning Continental Champions in both the mens and womens categories


 

SECTION SIX

 

DISCIPLINARY PROCEDURES DURING COMPETITIONS

 

 

1. INTRODUCTION

 

1.1. The President of the Jury shall have overall authority for all activities and decisions affecting the competition within the competition zone; i.e. the competition registration area, the isolation and transit zones, the competition area immediately in front of the climbing wall and on the climbing wall.

 

1.2. These Disciplinary Regulations should be read in conjunction with the regulations governing the sport of international competition climbing.

 

2. COMPETITORS

 

2.1. The President of the Jury and the Category Judge shall be authorised to take the following actions, as specified below, in respect to infringements of the competition regulations and in regard to matters of indiscipline by any competitor whilst in the competition area:

 

a) Informal, verbal warning;

b) An official warning accompanied by the showing of a 'Yellow Card';

The President of the Jury only shall be authorised to take the following sanction:

c) Disqualification from the competition - accompanied by the showing of a 'Red Card'.

 

2.2. A Yellow Card warning, Article 2.1(b) above, may be issued for any of the following infringements of the regulations

a) Undue delay in returning to the isolation zone following the instruction of the Category Judge or the President of the Jury

b) Failure to start in accordance with the Category Judge's instruction;

c) Failure to obey the instruction of the Category Judge and/or the President of the Jury;

d) Use of obscene or abusive language or behaviour of a relatively mild nature;

e) Unsporting behaviour of relatively minor nature;

 

Appeals against such decisions shall follow the procedure specified in Section 7.

 

2.3. The issue of a second yellow card in one competition, shall determine the disqualification of the competitor from the competition itself.

The issue of two yellow cards in the same season, will result in one of the following:

a)      if the competitor is already registered for the next ICC approved competition, counting for the CUWR, then the competitor will not be eligible to enter this event

b)      if a) is not applicable, then the competitor is ineligible for registration in the next ICC approved competition, counting for the CUWR, in the same discipline the second yellow card was issued.

 

2.4. Disqualification without Further Sanction: The following infringements of the regulations shall result in issuing of a Red Card and the immediate disqualification of the competitor from the competition without further sanction:

a) Observing the routes from outside the permitted observation zone;

b) Failure to report properly equipped at the start of a route;

c) The use of non-approved equipment;

d) Unapproved modification of, and/or failure to wear, the competition vest and/or competitor's number as provided by the competition organiser.

e) Unauthorised use of any means of communication while in the isolation zone or in other restricted area

 

Appeals against such decisions shall follow the procedure specified in Section 7.

 

2.5. Disqualification with Immediate referral to the Discipline Commission: The following infringements of the regulations shall result in the issuing of a Red Card and the immediate disqualification of the competitor from the competition with referral to the Disciplinary Commission, following the related procedure the further sanction of suspension from one successive World Cup competitions or, in the case of an infraction of the regulations in non-World Cup competitions, one successive ICC-approved competitions:

 

a) Infringements of the regulations committed in the competition area, isolation and transit zones:

(i) Gathering information regarding a route which the competitor is to attempt beyond that which is permitted by the regulations;

(ii) Gathering and communicating information to other competitors beyond that which is permitted by the regulations;

(iii) Distracting or interfering with any competitor who is preparing for, or in the process of attempting, a route;

(iv) Failure to comply with the instructions of the official judges and/or organiser's officials;

(vi) Non-participation in any official ceremony or any other designated official event;

(vii) Refusal to conform with the advertising regulations governing competitor's clothing.

(viii) Unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance to the competition;

(ix) Unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance, and/or abusive, insulting and/or violent words and/or behaviour to ICC officials, Organiser's officials and/or team officials and/or other competitors and/or members of the public.

b) Infringements committed outside the competition area but in the public arena:

(i) Unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance to the competition;

(ii) Unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance, and/or abusive, insulting and/or violent words and/or behaviour to ICC officials, Organiser's officials and/or team officials and/or other competitors and/or members of the public.

 

 

2.6. At the earliest convenient time after issuing a 'Yellow' or 'Red Card', the President of the Jury shall:

 

a) Submit a written statement to the competitor's team manager (or in the absence of a team manager, to the competitor concerned) regarding the offence and whether the President of the Jury proposes to refer the matter for consideration in respect to further disciplinary action in accordance with the regulations.

b) The President of the Jury shall submit a copy of this written statement together with a detailed report of the offence against the regulations, any evidence, and any recommendations regarding consideration of additional sanction to the ICC for referral to the ICC's Disciplinary Commission.

 

3. TEAM OFFICIALS

 

3.1. Team officials shall be regarded in the same manner as competitors and shall be treated accordingly.

 

4. OTHER PERSONS

 

4.1. The President of the Jury shall be authorised to demand the immediate dismissal from the competition area (including the isolation and transit zones) of any person in contravention of the regulations and, if necessary, suspend all competition activities until this demand has been complied with.


SECTION SEVEN

 

COMPETITION APPEALS PROCEDURE

 

 

1. GENERAL

 

1.1. All oral and written appeals and official responses to appeals shall be made in English.

 

1.2. An appeal shall only be accepted if accompanied by the official appeal fee.

 

2. COMPETITION APPEALS JURY

 

2.1. In the event of a written appeal, or in the case of a verbal appeal in the case of 3.1. and 4.2(b) below, the President of the Jury shall convene an Appeals Jury. The members of the Appeal Jury will be the President of the Jury and the ICC Delegate. If the President of the Jury has been involved in the original decision and the Category Judge has not, then the Category Judge will take the place of the President of the Jury. If the Jury can not come to a unanimous decision on the appeal, the original decision will stand. A decision shall be made as rapidly as circumstances allow. In the case of written appeals, the decision of the Appeal Jury shall be made in writing and handed by the President of the Jury to the person who officially lodged the appeal or, in the case of an appeal under 4.2(b) above the team manager and/or competitor shall be informed..

2.2. The decision of the Appeal Jury in respect to Article 3 and 4. below of these regulations shall be final and not subject to further appeal.

 

3. APPEALS AGAINST A JUDGES DECISION CONCERNING A COMPETITOR'S ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE

3.1. In respect to an appeal regarding Section 4, General Regulations, Article 10 of these regulations, this may be made to the Category Judge, who will immediately inform the President of the Jury, in order to proceed in accordance with the above procedure.

 

4. APPEALS FOLLOWING THE PUBLICATION OF THE RESULTS OF EACH ROUND

4.1. An appeal against the ranking of a competitor after the completion of a round of the competition and after the official results have been published must be made no later than 30 minutes after the publication of the results. The appeal must be made only following the publication of the results at the end of each round of a competition. The appeal shall be made in writing (in English) to the President of the Jury by the team manager or (where an official team manager is not present) by the competitor. The appeal must be accompanied by the relevant ICC-approved appeal fee.

 

4.2. Speed Competitions:

 

a) In the case of a round based on a competitor's time (i.e. the qualification round), an appeal must be made in accordance with 4.1 above.

b) In the case of the final ('knock-out' elimination) round of the competition, an appeal must be made immediately after the announcement of the result of the completion of the heat of the competitor concerned. The Category Judge shall immediately refer the matter to the President of the Jury. The next round of the Speed final shall not commence until the President of the Jury has announced his/her decision. No fee shall be payable in respect to such appeals.

5. APPEALS TO THE DISCIPLINARY COMMISSION

 

5.1. In those cases where the President of the Jury assesses that an infringement of the regulations merits consideration by the ICC's Disciplinary Commission, the matter shall be referred to the disciplinary body together with the President of the Jury's report, copies of written communications between the President of the Jury and the team manager/competitor concerned, and all relevant evidence.

 

6. DISCIPLINARY COMMISSION

 

6.1. The composition and the procedures of the Disciplinary Commission are defined in the ICC's referred documents.

 

7. APPEAL FEES

 

7.1. The appeal fees payable shall be in accordance with the list of fees published annually by the ICC.

 

7.2. If an appeal is upheld, the appeal fee shall be returned. If an appeal is rejected, the appeal fee shall not be returned.

 

 


SECTION EIGHT

 

Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code

 

1. Adoption

 

The UIAA being the International Federation recognised by the IOC for mountaineering and climbing herewith adopts the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code. The adoption includes the present Code as well as future changes that might be decided by the IOC.

 

2. Application

 

The Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code applies to all competitions that are organised under the authority of the UIAA-ICC. Any person who enters, prepares for or participates in any manner - as athlete, coach, trainer, official, medical or para-medical personnel - in such competitions is presumed to have agreed to comply with the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code.

 

3. Competent Bodies within UIAA

 

The competent bodies for the application of the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code within the UIAA is for competition climbing and related disciplines as bouldering, the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC);

 

ICC may delegate their competence to a permanent working group including medical experts, preferably from the Medical Commission of the UIAA.

 

 

4. Prohibited Classes of Substances and Prohibited Methods

 

The list of prohibited classes of substances and prohibited methods in the Olympic Anti-Doping Code as well as future amendments to said list are applicable. In addition to chapter III of said list (Classes of prohibited substances in certain circumstances) the following is laid down:

A.     Alcohol.

In-competition tests will be conducted for ethanol.

B. Cannabinoids

In-competition tests will be conducted for cannabinoids. A concentration > 15 nanogram/ml constitutes doping.

C. Local anaesthetics.

Notification of administration to the relevant medical authority is necessary.

D. Glucocorticosteroids

Notification of administration to the relevant medical authority is necessary.

E. B-blockers.

In-competition tests will be conducted for B-blockers.

 

 

 

 

5. Out-of-Competitions-Tests

 

ICC undertake to do Out-of-Competition-Tests in accordance with the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code.

 

 

6. Penalties for Infractions

 

The penalties for infractions as outlined in Chapter II of the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code are applicable without restriction.

 

 

7. Competent Organs to impose Sanctions and Right of Appeal

 

The Disciplinary Commission of the ICC is the organ competent to impose sanctions for infractions of the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code.

 

Any person afflicted by a decision rendered by the Disciplinary Commission in application of the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code has the right of appeal to the Court of Arbitration for Sport, CH - 1001 Lausanne, Switzerland, in accordance with Chapter III of the Olympic Movement Anti-Doping Code.

 

By participating according to Article 2 of the present Regulations in competitions organised under the authority of the UIAA, the participant acknowledges the exclusive competence of the Court of Arbitration for Sport and undertakes to refrain from appealing to any other Court.

 

 

regolamento 23-03-2002