||A belay signal yelled to indicate a fall in progress
||Liquid consumed in large quantities after climbing.
||Insider information or advice about a climb given by one
(or quite often 6) self-proclaimed experts. Running or auto beta is someone telling you
how to do the moves as you go (as in "can you please shut up with that running beta!
I want to find out myself.) The origin is from Betamax Video Format; with the quality of
the Beta that I get it's no surprise that VHS is the current standard.
||The type of climb that is so long and sustained that a
normal ascent lasts several days.
||Of the highest or finest quality; exceptionally good of
it's kind. It is very often to only word in a climber's vocabulary, and studies are
currently underway to determine it's viability as a language.
||A branch of rock climbing without the use of safety ropes
primarily concerned with the climbing of exceptionally difficult moves on boulders.
Usually, done up to a height where it is still safe to jump off.
||To climb buildings. Most often done in urban college towns
by die hard climbers where descent pitches are few and far between. Often illegal - but
that is what makes it fun.
||To belay from the safety and security of your own vehicle.
Most often practised around local crags were the road is paved up to the base of the
climb, around the rock and, in some cases, up to the rap anchors.
||A magic powder that makes hands stick to even the smoothest
||Shoes made with sticky rubber soles that would have fit
comfortably when you were ten.
||To pull on a hold as hard as possible until you break.
||To fall and hit the ground, as in "I almost
||Slimy, Putrid Hold that sucks my soul.
||A fall which would cause the leader to hit the ground or
the belay ledge but, if it makes you feel any better, is not a Factor 2 Fall.
||Cool way a saying "Let me down" after either
finishing or giving up on a top rope climb.
||To have a sewing machine leg (See Sewing Machine Leg).
Named after the famous climber "Elvis, the King," who always suffered from this
affliction when singing before a crowd of screaming women.
||A white powder kept in small plastic bags, it is used to
satisfy an addiction or recreationally at rest holds.
||AKA-free-solo rappel; A dynamic retreat from a climb. Note:
It is never the fall that kills - It's the sudden stop at the end.
||An attempt the regain composure after a fall. Quite often
followed by "Damn Newbie Climbers must'a broken a hold. Hell I've been climbing here
for 3 months, I have a right be here!"
||To be entirely burnt out, being able to climb no further.
Often used by Yuppies to describe their Warm-Up.
||To completely finish a climb with no falls or dogging and
with no previous attempts on the climb.
||Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds.
Ropes and gear are only used for protection - not progression.
||Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. Done by
people who are really good or really stupid. You fall - You die!
|Going To Church
||Going climbing on a Sunday. "...No Mam, we're
climbers... We're on a mission from God."--Blues Bros.
||A climber (most often a novice) who is spread out on or
below a climb
||The piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The
coolness factor is significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go
|.Lets Bolt It
||Last term, usually heard before major fights between
climbers in their usual hang outs, around bars or on rec.climbing
||An obsolete term used to describe a "No-Falls"
ascent clipping pre placed gear.
||Formerly 1 rope length, but it has been determined to be
exactly 15 feet of really good climbing or 200 feet of dirty, loose run-out crap
||Anchors (see above) placed during a climb to protect the
leader. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of
||The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are
familiar with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes the forearms to swell and the
strength to disappear. With a serious forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer (see
above) can become a serious challenge..
||Neither Quick, nor Draw. Discuss among yourselves. In
actuality it is a short sling with biners on either side most often used in lead climbing.
||To ascend a route "No-Falls" placing your own
||Seriously overhanging part in a climb. The climber is more
or less horizontal. .
||Yelled to advise persons below that a massive object has
been overcome by gravity and is rapidly approaching from above. The loudness, number of
repetitions, an/or panic in the voice which this word is uttered is often an indication of
the seriousness of the rock. The probability of being struck is equal wherever you may
stand, but increases greatly if you look up.
||A fall long enough that you have to catch you breath in the
middle of it to finish your scream. Usually talked about (Or sometimes taken) in a bar
with beer in hand.
||A completely friction move using a non-standard contact
surface such as a knee, face. ear, tongue, etc.(Use your Imagination)
||A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly begins to jerk
up and down like a sewing machine. (see also: to Elvis).
||The to which the leader is attached, not normally shape but
can be if sheath slippage is not trimmed properly.
||A hand hold that needs to be held with horizontal
(sideways) pressure toward the climber.
||A featureless Teflon coated anti-hold, it's usability is
determined solely by sun spots.
||To get completely whooped by a problem or climb."Man,
I got spanked last week by Nancy (12a) out at Mickey's Beach.
||Climbs (usually a single pitch) on cliffs which have been
vandalised with bolts, chalk, and lycra-clad trendites. Widely perceived as being safer
and thus adored by land managers as an excuse to close climbing areas.
||Coffee, Joe, The Black Sun, That which gives Jed a
|Thank God Hold
||The hold that offers the best Photo Op
||Short for "traditional" - Used to describe the
type of climbing where you have to place your own protection as you ascend. Usually
accompanied by heinous difficult approaches and descents which are often times more
dangerous than the actual climb.
||Dirty / Grassy Licheny route. Usually also wet and rotten.
Beware of Goats
||A "no falls" top rope ascent; or a climb so scary
it had wet and embarrassing consequences.