Froggatt Edge

Adventure

 

Introduction

You may have to pay to go rock climbing at the Froggatt Edge Crag. As a result many climbers prefer to climb at one of the many other great crags in the Wharepapa area, where access is free. 

 

Click here for a list of great crags with FREE access.

You may have to pay to go rock climbing at the Froggatt Edge Crag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Introduction

Frogatt Edge  has quickly become one of the biggest and best rock climbing crags in the Waikato region. Most of the routes have been re-bolted with stainless steel ringbolts. As with other crags in the area Froggatt is comprised of ignimbrite which is tough on your skin so a nice static style will yield greater mileage.

bulletRoutes - over 120
bulletGrades - 10 to 28
bulletCliff Heights - 8m to 25m
bulletRock Type - Ignimbrite
bulletProtection - Natural and Fixed (Bolts)
bulletGuide Book - Central North Island Rock & The Hitchhikers Guide to Froggatt Edge
KellyCudworthLonglegs.jpg (92897 bytes)

Assess

From the 'T' Intersection at Wharepapa South drive past the entrance to the Wharepapa school and travel another 400m. Turn left into Whatauri Road and travel approximately 1.1km to the parking area and entrance located on your right.

Froggatt Gate.jpg (38088 bytes)

The access situation at Frogatt in now very simple, however, all climbers and non-climbers are requested to sign the book at the gate, before following the track to the climbing areas. DO NOT DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE ONTO THE FARM.

Froggatt Edge is located on private land owned by the generous Peter Hunt and his family. (Trevor Froggatt formerly owned Froggatt, hence the name). The Hunts are thrilled to have us climb their rock. Please remember that they allows us to climb at Froggatt so treat them and their farm with respect. Do the usual, i.e. leave gates as you find them, no dogs, don't leave rubbish and if you see any, please pick it up etc. If you see Peter say g’day and thanks.

Bouldering

Froggatt has a number of high quality Bouldering problems. Thanks to the efforts of Tony Zaloum their details are included in the Froggatt Bouldering Guide.

Climbing Areas

As you walk down the farm track you pass the following climbing areas.

bulletHold On To Your Face Wall
bulletMain Cliff - Pond Side (Far Right)
bulletMain Cliff - Main Face
bulletHeavenly Wall
bulletRed Block Area
bulletBulge Gully
bulletSlug Wall
bulletAnimal Biscuit Valley
bulletThe Beer Garden

Hold On To Your Face Wall

This area is situated over behind the pond as you walk down the farm track. To access the area follow the track keeping the pond to your right and follow the fence line up the hill, before crossing the style at the top.

Froggatt HOTYFW 2.jpg (54954 bytes) Froggatt HOTYFW 1.jpg (68012 bytes)

Main Cliff - Pond Side (Far Right)

Froggatt Main 1.jpg (60929 bytes)

From right to left beginning where fence line meets the rock

Volcanic 19 (15m) Face. 5 bolts. Begins immediately left of the fence.

Streetwise 19 (15m) . Face 5 bolts plus a tree belay . Begins in easy groove and finishes up overhanging wall.

The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt 18 (15m) Face. 6 bolts. A superb name for a superb route. Follow the ringbolts left of the last route all the way to the top.

Ignimbrite 20 (20m) Face. 7 bolts. Not one of the best routes around, follows the truckload of bolts left of the last route, hard to miss.

** Safe Playing 19 (20m) Face to steep slab. 6 bolts. Around the corner from the last route, follow the bolts to the top.

Roadweary 18 (20m) Face to steep slab. 7 or 8 bolts. Left again, up the funny looking crack thing to the top, shares belay with Safe Playing.

Main Cliff - Main Face

Froggatt Main 2.jpg (74617 bytes) Mad POM Solo on Terror Incognita.jpg (26627 bytes)

* Bonne Annee 16 (20m) Aręte . 5 or 6 bolts. The aręte to the left of the last route, has reasonable run-outs for somebody leading the grade. Starts on the left side of the aręte.

Serife 16 (20m) 5 bolts plus tree belay. The next obvious aręte left of Bonne Annee.

Al Fresco 14 (20m) Steep slab/corner. 4 or 5 bolts, the tree belay has been replaced with ringbolt belays. The left facing corner just to the left of the last route ( Lana climbed this one).

Climatic Conclusions 17 (20m) Aręte to small gully, 8 bolts. The next aręte along. This route begins here, climbs up and moves right onto the face and finishes up the rubbishy gully. A variation is to finish up the headwall of Monsterpiece Theatre.

*** Monsterpiece Theatre 20 (25m) Slab to roof to steep face. The route ascends the obvious slab, on through the small roof and moves slightly right to finish up the overhanging headwall. KellyCudworthAdam2.jpg (53983 bytes)
*** Terror Incognita 17 (25m) Slab to aręte, 7 bolts. Climbs the left side of the slab and works its way up the ever steep aręte/face above. This climb has been described as a grade 17 with a 19 attitude, so go for it.

FroggattTerrorIncognita.jpg (80999 bytes)

  ** Powder Queen 18 (20m) Corner to face, 7 bolts with double ringbolt belay. Around the corner just to the left (yet again) this route scrambles up to the corner and heads on up the face above.

* Tulsa Time 19 (20m) Overhanging face 6 bolts? Ascends the same wall as Powder Queen but to the left.

One Mans Meat 14 (15m) Aręte, 4 ring-bolts. The route ascends the gently sloping aręte to the double ringbolt belay.

Automatic Dour 27 (15m) Steep face. Again this climb is hard to miss it ascends the vague aręte through some beautiful moves to the top. Highly recommended.

Project. The face immediately left of Automatic Dour, something for the future.

** White Christmas 16 (15m) Corner 4 ringbolts. A neat little route which ascends the corner to the cave below the top of the cliff. Usually dry this is a popular route for rainy days.

Blazing Away 19 (12m) Face. 2 bolts. Past the large block is a small wall, Blazing away is the right most route and it ends at the same cave as White Christmas.

Wallflower 17 (8m) Face, 2 bolts. The route to the left on the small face described before ends at the same cave.

Spotty and SuperTed Strike Again 21 (12m) Face, 4 bolts. Follow the track up the base of the gently overhanging face and climb the face followed by the right aręte at the top.

New Area under development 

  Froggatt Main 3.jpg (73274 bytes)

Slug Wall

This is a nice sunny spot with some nice easy routes (just don't fall on the ledge)

FroggattSlugWall.jpg (74460 bytes)

Animal Biscuit Valley

Froggatt ABV 1.jpg (76079 bytes) Froggatt ABV 2.jpg (40517 bytes) Froggatt ABV 3.jpg (65373 bytes)
Froggatt ABV 4.jpg (78316 bytes) Froggatt ABV 5.jpg (83729 bytes) Froggatt ABV 6.jpg (86825 bytes)
Froggatt ABV 7.jpg (64376 bytes)

Beer Garden

FroggattBeerGarden01.JPG (71905 bytes) FroggattBeerGarden02.JPG (72123 bytes) FroggattBeerGarden03.JPG (76976 bytes)

 

 

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Ó Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.