Continuing along the farm road, on your right you’ll see there is
some fun bouldering to be had there (above). If you follow the direction of the arrow, on
your right see two problems here.
A Man, a Plan, a Canal, Panama (V4) Traverse finishing around the corner on good
holds. Harder than it looks. (FA Roland Foster)
Mantle (V4) Mantle shelf the roof, don’t use side wall or around the
corner.
Back on the farm road, and continuing along you’ll come to the bottom of Bulge
Valley. Walk up the valley to find about 10 problems. On your right you’ll
first see:
Unnamed Traverse (V2) Start at the right, move left but keep below the ledge
above.
Straight up between the lines (V4) Climb straight up while staying between the
lines the whole time, this is difficult to do. FA Richard Bull
Dyno Thing (V1) Start with both hands on large jug at the left side of the cave
and set up for a long move out right to jugs. However, you can’t have your foot on
the obvious foot hold under the jug (see cross on photo). Move out right, then direct to
hold the lip.
10 m up the valley on the same side you’ll see a short roof about 4
m
up. One problem goes up through the roof.
80’s Revival (V5) Look carefully for holds. Basically climb the line of
least resistance that goes through the roof. A good reliable spot is required. Once you
have pulled the lip, traverse left and top out. (FA Tony Zaloum)
The other climb traverses.
Andrew’s Low Traverse (V1) Start low and stay low, finish on the platform
under a low roof. (FA Andrew Wilson)
When you’re at the above route (80’s Revival) behind you is:
Note, this view is from the top of the valley. Only the first two routes of about
six are marked on the photo. On the far left you’ll find:
Dustcake Boy (V6) A very intimidating line, climb up and tend left, don’t
fall. (FA Roland Foster)
In order, the next four routes to the right are:
Unnamed (V4) Climb straight up on good positive holds.
Unnamed (V4) A long move (dynamic maybe) up to the left to a good hold (3 finger
jug). Then move right and up to top out. Stay within the lines.
Unnamed (V3) An awkward little problem, that is pretty much one plus a few
moves. Stay within the lines. FA Andrew Wilson
Unnamed (V0) A short move to a huge two finger pocket and continue upwards to
top out. Stay within the lines.
There is another problem to the right, which is short and easy.
Animal Biscuit Valley (see map for location) The first significant piece
climbable rock you’ll see on your right when moving up animal biscuit valley is:
The Sanger (V1) Start at the right, traverse left finishing standing on the
ground IN control! (FA Tony Zaloum)
A little further up the valley is a dark looking wall with a fun traverse on it if it
is dry. All the holds are big but so are some of the moves.
Fun Traverse (V2) Start at the far right, move left then up then cross over and
up with your right, then move down and keep going until you reach the arête
at the mouth
of the cave. (FA Simon Cook)
To the left of the Fun Traverse is an overhanging face with a problem on.
There is heaps of potential for eliminate bouldering. See below.
Col’s Project (V9) Start at the right pinching, with your
right, a vertical seam and pocket and hold a two finger pocket with your
left. Move right to eventually finish holding the large pocket around the
corner situated at about 8 foot off the ground with your left hand.
Just around the corner is:
Heaps has been done here although nothing much has been named.
A high traverse (V5) Move up to largest hold on the lip and charge on leftwards.
(FA Scott Mooney)
A low traverse (V1) Many variations
Up the scoop pure (V0) This is actually the start to the route Lunar Leopard.
Finish this problem at the LARGE jug to the left of the first bolt.
There are also harder eliminates up the scoop.
On the right (see photo) is the start of a grade 23 climb which is an excellent
boulder. It finishes when your are standing comfortably over the lip. To the right of
where the photo is there is another boulder problem that finishes at a bolt in the middle
of the face (for lowering off).
0 to 10 in 60 (V4) A tall person’s start, climb up to bolt,
with a harness and rope so you don’t have to jump. FA Dave Vass
Further up the valley is The Cave. In the cave are Curva Grande and The D Flow.
Curva Grande (V4) Start at the right, climb to the juggy part of the lip,
traverse left moving slightly down (left into a dark jug). Continue moving out left,
around the corner and down climb to the ground. A true classic, just about anyone can
enjoy themselves on this problem. Starts off easy and gets harder as you go. (FA Colin
Pohl)
The D Flow (V9) Start under the steepest part of the overhang and climb up to
gain the dark jug mentioned in the Curva Grande description. (FA Colin Pohl)
There is also eliminate bouldering to be done here.
At the bottom of animal biscuit valley to the right you should be able to see: These
boulders are called the Pupuke Boulders The main established route on Pupuke
boulder itself is at the right hand end.
Wisconsin Death Trap (V3) Start sort of in the cave, move up and out and up. FA
Roland Foster
To the left are numerous boulder problems which you can make up with a little
imagination. The 4 or so pure lines straight up are also worth playing on. There is a long
pumpy traverse from right to left. There is also huge scope for eliminate bouldering,
especially around the corner on the long traversing wall.
A short (uphill) walk will land you at the fence traverse. A closer
look would look like:
Wide Angle Saxon (V3) Go which ever way you fancy, the usual
direction is from right to left. Don’t use the fence!
Further along you’ll find Zulu Nation
Zulu Nation (V5/6) Take note of out of bound area, it is obvious,
feet must be above the seams when you start (and while climbing). Sit down start, move
left into under-cling, set up feet and go for a tight two finger pocket, then move both
hands to larger holds above to finish. FA Colin Pohl
At the top of the main cliff in the pine trees there are some boulders in
amongst the trees. Find your way to the top, if you don’t know, it would
be easier to ask. Search around and you’ll come across the three separate
walls shown below. They are all very close together. Traverse from bottom
left to right. Little problems here, mainly are traversing. This is quite
different to most Froggatt climbing. Eliminate bouldering here, 2 or 3
moves max.
