Adventure

 

Froggatt Edge Bouldering Guide

By Tony Zaloum

Preface

This is a guide to bouldering at Froggatt. The main areas where quality bouldering is to be found are described but certainly not all boulder problems. The problems outlined here are a good place to start. Once you are familiar with the area, get creative and create your own problems.

The Bouldering Grade System

The grading system used at Froggatt is the V system. The easiest problems are V0 and the hardest at Froggatt at time of writing is V9. As always with bouldering, your body shape, size, flexibility etc can have quite a bearing on how hard the problem is. Therefore, you may not necessarily agree with the grade given but it should be within one grade either way.

Access

Refer to the Access section for Froggatt Edge

Boulder Problems

After entering the farm gate, walk along the track, after about 500 m you’ll see rock. As you travel along the track you will see a pond on your right, it’s small and dirty. Above the pond it is a boulder - The Pond Boulder. There is bouldering on the close overhanging side and easier bouldering on the far side.

Continuing along the track you get to the Toilet Block Area. This is also where the toilet is, courtesy of the Smiths - bring your own paper. On the right boulder you’ll find

Unnamed (V4) Traverse from left to right, finish on ramp to the right. FA Phil de Joux

On the left boulder you’ll find

Seminal (V2) Climb the right arÍte. FA Phil de Joux

Eddie’s Technicolour Dreamscape (V2) Climb the middle of the face to summit. FA Roland Foster

Once a Gimmick (V2) Climb the left side of the face to summit. FA Roland Foster

Near the toilet you’ll find the boulder pictured below.

Moist Indiscretion (V2) Traverse from left to finish around the corner to the right. Keep on the face, don’t reach over the top! FA Phil de Juox

When you’re looking at Phil’s Traverse, turn right 120o and you’ll see:

Name Unknown (V2) Start bottom left and groove on upwards. (FA Roland Foster)

There are 3 other boulders each with about one problem close by. They are easy to find. Go to toilet. Once you have done your business, walk straight out of the toilet and up between two boulders. You have just passed two of the problems. Continue on up and you’ll find another boulder which has

Low Symphony (V4) Start on the ramp at the left and finish on the ramp to the right using only holds on the face and keeping reasonably low.

Continuing along the farm road, on your right you’ll see there is some fun bouldering to be had there (above). If you follow the direction of the arrow, on your right see two problems here.

A Man, a Plan, a Canal, Panama (V4) Traverse finishing around the corner on good holds. Harder than it looks. (FA Roland Foster)

Mantle (V4) Mantle shelf the roof, don’t use side wall or around the corner.

Back on the farm road, and continuing along you’ll come to the bottom of Bulge Valley. Walk up the valley to find about 10 problems. On your right you’ll first see:

Unnamed Traverse (V2) Start at the right, move left but keep below the ledge above.

Straight up between the lines (V4) Climb straight up while staying between the lines the whole time, this is difficult to do. FA Richard Bull

Dyno Thing (V1) Start with both hands on large jug at the left side of the cave and set up for a long move out right to jugs. However, you can’t have your foot on the obvious foot hold under the jug (see cross on photo). Move out right, then direct to hold the lip.

10 m up the valley on the same side you’ll see a short roof about 4 m up. One problem goes up through the roof.

80’s Revival (V5) Look carefully for holds. Basically climb the line of least resistance that goes through the roof. A good reliable spot is required. Once you have pulled the lip, traverse left and top out. (FA Tony Zaloum)

The other climb traverses.

Andrew’s Low Traverse (V1) Start low and stay low, finish on the platform under a low roof. (FA Andrew Wilson)

When you’re at the above route (80’s Revival) behind you is:

 Note, this view is from the top of the valley. Only the first two routes of about six are marked on the photo. On the far left you’ll find:

Dustcake Boy (V6) A very intimidating line, climb up and tend left, don’t fall. (FA Roland Foster)

In order, the next four routes to the right are:

Unnamed (V4) Climb straight up on good positive holds.

Unnamed (V4) A long move (dynamic maybe) up to the left to a good hold (3 finger jug). Then move right and up to top out. Stay within the lines.

Unnamed (V3) An awkward little problem, that is pretty much one plus a few moves. Stay within the lines. FA Andrew Wilson

Unnamed (V0) A short move to a huge two finger pocket and continue upwards to top out. Stay within the lines.

There is another problem to the right, which is short and easy.

Animal Biscuit Valley (see map for location) The first significant piece climbable rock you’ll see on your right when moving up animal biscuit valley is:

The Sanger (V1) Start at the right, traverse left finishing standing on the ground IN control! (FA Tony Zaloum)

A little further up the valley is a dark looking wall with a fun traverse on it if it is dry. All the holds are big but so are some of the moves.

Fun Traverse (V2) Start at the far right, move left then up then cross over and up with your right, then move down and keep going until you reach the arÍte at the mouth of the cave. (FA Simon Cook)

 

To the left of the Fun Traverse is an overhanging face with a problem on. There is heaps of potential for eliminate bouldering. See below.

Colís Project (V9) Start at the right pinching, with your right, a vertical seam and pocket and hold a two finger pocket with your left. Move right to eventually finish holding the large pocket around the corner situated at about 8 foot off the ground with your left hand.

Just around the corner is:

Heaps has been done here although nothing much has been named.

A high traverse (V5) Move up to largest hold on the lip and charge on leftwards. (FA Scott Mooney)

A low traverse (V1) Many variations

Up the scoop pure (V0) This is actually the start to the route Lunar Leopard. Finish this problem at the LARGE jug to the left of the first bolt.

There are also harder eliminates up the scoop.

On the right (see photo) is the start of a grade 23 climb which is an excellent boulder. It finishes when your are standing comfortably over the lip. To the right of where the photo is there is another boulder problem that finishes at a bolt in the middle of the face (for lowering off).

0 to 10 in 60 (V4) A tall personís start, climb up to bolt, with a harness and rope so you donít have to jump. FA Dave Vass

Further up the valley is The Cave. In the cave are Curva Grande and The D Flow.

Curva Grande (V4) Start at the right, climb to the juggy part of the lip, traverse left moving slightly down (left into a dark jug). Continue moving out left, around the corner and down climb to the ground. A true classic, just about anyone can enjoy themselves on this problem. Starts off easy and gets harder as you go. (FA Colin Pohl)

The D Flow (V9) Start under the steepest part of the overhang and climb up to gain the dark jug mentioned in the Curva Grande description. (FA Colin Pohl)

There is also eliminate bouldering to be done here.

At the bottom of animal biscuit valley to the right you should be able to see: These boulders are called the Pupuke Boulders The main established route on Pupuke boulder itself is at the right hand end.

Wisconsin Death Trap (V3) Start sort of in the cave, move up and out and up. FA Roland Foster

To the left are numerous boulder problems which you can make up with a little imagination. The 4 or so pure lines straight up are also worth playing on. There is a long pumpy traverse from right to left. There is also huge scope for eliminate bouldering, especially around the corner on the long traversing wall.

A short (uphill) walk will land you at the fence traverse. A closer look would look like:

Wide Angle Saxon (V3) Go which ever way you fancy, the usual direction is from right to left. Donít use the fence!

Further along youíll find Zulu Nation

Zulu Nation (V5/6) Take note of out of bound area, it is obvious, feet must be above the seams when you start (and while climbing). Sit down start, move left into under-cling, set up feet and go for a tight two finger pocket, then move both hands to larger holds above to finish. FA Colin Pohl

At the top of the main cliff in the pine trees there are some boulders in amongst the trees. Find your way to the top, if you donít know, it would be easier to ask. Search around and youíll come across the three separate walls shown below. They are all very close together. Traverse from bottom left to right. Little problems here, mainly are traversing. This is quite different to most Froggatt climbing.  Eliminate bouldering here, 2 or 3 moves max.

 

 

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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.