Wharepapa and Froggat crags
turn commercial
Who will pay
to climb?
The
owner of the Wharepapa South crags, Waikato farmer and businessman Trevor
Johnson, has recently purchased Froggat Edge, previously owned by Peter
Hunt.
Trevor owns three farms and has substantial plans for the region. At the
moment the main area of focus is Wharepapa South where a considerable
amount of money has been spent replacing lead and belay bolts on all the
routes. The bolting project was undertaken by Richard Bull, a very active
local new-router. Belays have been rated and tested by an engineer in
order to provide a benchmark of safety for the crag. There is also a new
guide to Wharepapa available which includes a number of new routes. Other
work done there includes the clearing of gorse and ultimately off-road
parking, shelters and flush toilets will be provided for crag users. It is
also intended that some native trees will be planted.
Yes, this does come at a cost. Trevor has employed a (Crag
Manager), Jeff Carter, to look after the development and intends to charge
across the board for access. Climbers wanting to climb at Bumblies
Buttress, for example, will be charged somewhere in the region of $5$10
for the day. ”As far a I’m concerned, I’m developing a
resource out there and so I’m just wanting a return on that”,
said Trevor.
There is widespread opposition by some locals and many climbers who
frequent Wharepapa South. The suggestion of having to pay to climb, at a
long established area, it outrageous to those used to using the area for
free. Although climbers are getting something for their money - flush
toilets, shelters, improved parking and standardised bolts most are happy
with the area as it is and see no need for such 'improvements'.
Particularly when the bolting issue takes care of itself - due to willing
volunteers. The Wharepapa South crag is the first in New Zealand to have
had such direct commercial interest and the commercialisation of it could
set an unfortunate precedent and example for crag access and 'management'.
Opposite the Wharepapa crags a lodge is being developed that will offer
backpacker style accommodation and provide a base for a range of outdoor
activites including climbing instruction, mountain biking courses and
white water rafting. “We’re developing it as a whole package,
we’d be expecting people to come up to our lodge, where people would
pay... buy a ticket for the day”.
Trevor says “We want climbers to understand that I’m not after a
quick buck... what we’re charging is because of the money we’re
spending on developing the climbs - we certainly intend to promote the
climbing [here] overseas... we’re seeking to lift the profile of
the whole climbing sport really”.
In many ways the services seem oriented towards instructional groups and
beginners, for example, Jeff says that groups will be able to book in
advance particular parts of the crag for use. A frightening prospect for
the New Zealand climber who is used to turning up at the crag and doing
whatever they feel like.
”Our big target will be, not advanced climbers, but the person
seeking to do it for the first or second time ... we will have equipment
and instructors available”. Trevor said.
The lodge, which is developed out of an old farm house and other
developments are set to open around September.
Mark Watson, June 2001.
Climb
New Zealand Footnote: Wharepapa and Froggat are only two of the crags
in the Wharepapa Region. For a complete list of the other great climbing
areas have a look at our section on the Wharepapa
South Region
